Showing posts with label chameleon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chameleon. Show all posts

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Chameleons & Vitamin A


Holly Frisby, DVM, MS
Veterinary Services

What Is Vitamin A?

Vitamin A is a fat soluble vitamin, and can be stored in fatty tissues in the body. Vitamin A is required for healthy skin, mucous membranes, the retina of the eye, muscles, teeth, and other tissues. It is necessary for proper growth, reproduction, and a properly functioning immune system. Some forms of vitamin A also have antioxidant properties. It is an essential nutrient, meaning it must be included in the diet.

What Are the Forms of Vitamin A?

There are several forms of vitamin A. Beta-carotene is a form commonly found in vegetables. Many animals can convert beta-carotene into vitamin A. Others, such as the cat, cannot, and must have what is commonly referred to as preformed vitamin A. It was originally thought that chameleons could convert beta-carotene, but recent research suggests that they too may need preformed vitamin A.

There has been considerable controversy over how much, and what type of vitamin A chameleons need. Reports of small research studies in the 1990s suggested chameleons should not be given preformed vitamin A, since it could result in excessive levels of vitamin A in the animal (hypervitaminosis A). Later research found this information to be incorrect. Many chameleons today suffer from vitamin A deficiency (hypovitaminosis A) due to the misinformation published in the early 1990s.

What Are the Signs of Vitamin A Abnormalities?

Hypovitaminosis A

  • Reduced growth rate
  • Death
  • Metabolic bone disease
  • Necrosis/sloughing of the tip of the tail
  • Swollen lips
  • Swelling around the eyes
  • Abnormal vertebrae
  • Difficulty with maintaining a grip or posture
  • Increased number of upper respiratory infections
  • Inability to reproduce or death of eggs
  • Loss of appetite
  • Skin abnormalities
  • Hemipenile impactions in young males

Hypervitaminosis A

  • Loss of appetite
  • Liver enlargement
  • Bone abnormalities
  • Calcium deposits in soft tissues
  • Skin abnormalities

Why Are Pet Chameleons Susceptible to Vitamin A Deficiency?

Chameleons kept as pets often have a diet that primarily consists of insects. In many cases, insects purchased for feeding have not been fed properly and have poor vitamin A levels. In the wild, chameleons also eat small lizards and birds as part of their diet. These species, because of the vegetable matter in their stomach and intestines, provide much higher levels of vitamin A. In addition, the insects they feed on have generally not been nutritionally deprived, as are some purchased insects.

How Are Chameleons With Vitamin A Abnormalities Treated?

Hypovitaminosis A is treated by giving oral or inject-able vitamin A. The husbandry and nutrition must be corrected to prevent recurrence. Secondary problems such as infections also need to be treated. Animals with severe deficiencies may have permanent problems such as skeletal abnormalities, eye disease, or impaired respiration.

The basic treatment of hypervitaminosis A is to remove the supplemental source of vitamin A. Secondary problems such as liver toxicity or skin abnormalities will also need to be treated.

How Should Chameleons Be Fed?

In the wild, chameleons eat a wide variety of insects. As pets, they are generally fed crickets, mealworms, and wax worms. Feeder insects should be coated with calcium supplement (powdered calcium carbonate or calcium gluconate) twice a week for adult Veiled Chameleons; every day for juveniles. The insects should also be "gut-loaded," which means the insects are fed nutritious and vitamin-rich foods before they are given to the chameleon.

Vitamin Rich Foods to Feed Insects

  • apples
  • broccoli
  • carrots
  • cereals
  • collard greens
  • cornmeal
  • ground legumes
  • mustard greens
  • oranges
  • rolled oats
  • spinach
  • sweet potatoes

There are also commercial products rich in calcium and vitamins that can be fed to the insects. There are entire books and manuals on the subject of properly feeding prey insects for pet reptiles. Try to become as knowledgeable as possible regarding the housing and caring for prey insects. It is time-consuming and may be more expensive, but it will help your chameleon live a longer and healthier life.

If the insects are gut-loaded properly, additional vitamin supplementation is often not necessary. Because the amount of food these insects eat cannot always readily be determined, some veterinarians prefer adding a dietary supplement, especially to breeding animals. Others recommend supplementing adults once a week, and juveniles every other feeding. Specific recommendations vary with the species, age, and if the animal is breeding, so a veterinarian knowledgeable about herps should be consulted.

Feed as varied a diet as possible. In general, the more variety, the less likely a nutritional deficiency or excess will occur. Insects may be purchased or wild-caught (without the use of pesticides). Live, wild-caught insects can provide interest, mental and physical stimulation, as well as good nutrition.

Good Foods to Feed Chameleons

  • Caterpillars
  • Cicadas
  • Cockroaches
  • Crickets — no more than 50% of diet
  • Earthworms
  • Flies
  • Grain beetles
  • Grasshoppers
  • Meal worms
  • Pinkie mice
  • Silkworms and silk moths
  • Walking sticks
  • Wax moths
  • Wax worms — high in fat, so feed sparingly

The chameleon should be fed by placing the insects in a small bowl. After feeding, check that none of the insects escaped and fouled the water supply in the cage.

Some Veiled Chameleons also appreciate a small amount of plant material in their diet. Clip mustard or collard greens to the side of the cage, and spray them with water.

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Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Panther Chameleons


Chameleons
Chameleons are amazing creatures, but sometimes are not the best choice as pets. They are not for the beginner and their requirements are quite specific, and they are easily stressed. They do not like to be handled so pass this reptile by if you want to be able to handle your reptile.

True (also known as old world) chameleons are most well known for their ability to change color. Young chameleons are usually a dull gray/brown color and can change shades a bit, but at around 5 months of age the adult color and the ability to change colors develops and a range of colors including green, blue green, turquoise and black can be seen. Changing colors provides camouflage, temperature regulation and a means of communicating with other chameleons. Colors change in response to excitement, stress, temperature, lighting conditions, the presence of another chameleon, and other influences. Generally, a dark brown to black chameleon is stressed, with the brighter colors reflecting a happier mood. Also, different colors can be seen due to color mutations and other color phases.

Other features that make chameleons unique include their tongue, which is used to catch prey. The tongue can be up to 1.5 times the length of the body, allowing chameleons to effectively catch insects from a distance. They live in trees, and their feet have three toes pointing one way and two the other, giving them a good grip. Many species also have a prehensile tail, meaning it is also used to grip branches. They have globular eyes which rotate like turrets and move independently, allowing a chameleon to scan a wide radius around them for both hunting and protection. They are largely insectivorous, although some species eat some vegetation and some small invertebrates such as slugs.

When selecting a chameleon, it is without question best to find a captive bred one. Wild caught specimens are usually extremely stressed, carry a heavy parasite load, and difficult to acclimate to captive conditions. Chameleons are not the hardiest nor easiest reptile to keep and starting with a stressed pet will only make matters worse. In addition, the capture and shipping of chameleons (which fortunately is being more tightly regulated) results in the death of many animals due to stress, dehydration or starvation - many more die in transit than make it to the pet store. (The same can be said for many exotic pet species.) Observe the chameleon - it should be bright and active, able to change colors, and have a well fleshed body. Some experienced chameleon keepers recommend a male, especially for the beginner, as their nutritional needs are somewhat simpler and they seem a little more hardy. Being territorial and solitary animals, chameleons should be kept singly. In any case, two males should never be kept together as they will be very aggressive with each other.

There are several species kept as pets, the most common being the veiled, Jackson's, and panther chameleons. Veiled chameleons are large (up to 2 feet long) and need a suitably large enclosure, but are fairly hardy. Jackson's chameleons are smaller (need less space), and the males look like little triceratops with three horns on the head, but they are not as hardy. Panther chameleons are also quite large (males are much larger than females), and exhibit some striking colors.

The natural habits of chameleons make them tricky to care for - they are arboreal, living exclusively in trees. They are solitary, and easily stressed. As a result, they need a cage with ample foliage for climbing and privacy. The enclosure must be quite large - for the larger chameleons a minimum of 3 feet by 3 feet by 4 feet tall should be provided - but the more space the better. Ample ventilation is required, and a cage screened on three sides is best, with poly mesh or vinyl coated wire preferred to prevent injury due to toes becoming caught. Lots of branches of various diameters need to be provided for climbing and the bulk of the cage space should be filled with branches or live foliage. Ensure that the plants are not toxic, as the chameleon may sample the foliage. Some enthusiasts recommend avoiding ficus plants as well. Substrate made up of small particles (gravel, sand, bark, moss) should be avoided to prevent the chameleon from accidentally eating it while catching prey. Several basking areas of various temperatures must also be provided, ranging from the upper limit of the species temperature preference to the loser end of the range, to allow the chameleons to thermo regulate. Jackson's chameleons do well at lower temperatures, but panther and veiled chameleons prefer warmer temperatures.

Chameleons do best with access to natural sunlight, but this is not feasible as a sole source of UV radiation for most owners. Incandescent and full spectrum (UV) fluorescent lighting is necessary. In addition, allowing some exposure to natural sunlight through an open window (glass filters out nearly all of the necessary UV radiation) will help keep chameleons happy and healthy (or placing the chameleon outdoors if the weather is appropriate, providing adequate shade to prevent overheating).

Chameleons get their water from droplets on leaves - as a rule they will not take water from a dish. Adequate water intake must be provided either through a drip system or by misting the enclosure at least twice daily. Drip systems can be purchased or fashioned from a water container with a pinhole placed on top of the cage, or even by placing ice cubes on top of the cage to melt slowly and drip into the cage. If a drip system is used, keep the watering location consistent so the chameleon knows where to find water. Misting will also help keep the humidity levels up. If a drip system is used, the excess water should be collected and removed though, to prevent the humidity from getting to high.

Chameleons seem to do best on a variety of insect foods. Try to feed as many types of insects as possible. Crickets, meal worms, super worms, wax worms, wax moths, non infesting roaches are all good items to feed. Prey food should be gut loaded with nutritious foods (leafy greens, vegetables, fruit) prior to feeding, and should be dusted with a calcium and vitamin D supplement. Chameleons may be susceptible to overdosing with vitamin A (hypervitaminosis A) so supplements must be balanced carefully. Again, the care sheets below cover details of supplementation. Keep in mind that egg laying females will need extra calcium supplies. Also, some nutritious leafy green (avoid spinach, lettuce, and cabbage) and other vegetables and fruits can be offered in small amounts as chameleons will occasionally sample these.

Chameleons are easily stressed, so cages should be placed in low traffic areas (a quiet room is ideal), and barriers (e.g. lots of foliage in the cage) between the chameleon and household activity should be provided. Avoid handling the chameleon and when observing the chameleon move slowly. They are fascinating and amazing, but need some special considerations to keep them stress free and healthy.

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Tuesday, August 18, 2009

The Meller's Chameleon


The Meller's chameleon is the largest of the chameleons not native to Madagascar. Their stout bodies can grow to be up to two feet (two-thirds of a meter) long and weigh more than a pound (one-half kilogram).

Meller's distinguish themselves from their universally bizarre-looking cousins with a single small horn protruding from the front of their snouts. This and their size earn them the common name "giant one-horned chameleon."

They are fairly common in the savanna of East Africa, including Malawi, northern Mozambique, and Tanzania. Almost one-half of the world’s chameleons live on the island of Madagascar.

As with all chameleons, Meller's will change colors in response to stress and to communicate with other chameleons. Their normal appearance is deep green with yellow stripes and random black spots. Females are slightly smaller, but are otherwise indistinguishable from males.

They subsist on insects and small birds, using their camouflage and a lightning-fast, catapulting tongue, which can be up to 20 inches (50 centimeters) long, to ambush prey.

Exotic pet enthusiasts often attempt to keep Meller's chameleons as pets. However, they are highly susceptible to even the slightest level of stress and are very difficult to care for in captivity. In the wild, they can live as long as 12 years.

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