Leaf Tailed Geckos

LEAF TAIL GECKOS
(Uroplatus species)
Origin: mainland Madagascar and surrounding islands.
Family: Gekkonidae

The leaf-tailed gecko family has nine members ranging in size from 30cm to 8cm. This cryptic gecko has excellent camouflage skills making it “blend” in to its natural environment of the rain forests of Madagascar. Larger members of the genus have beards and fringes around the whole body. When at rest laying head down on a mossy or lichen covered branch are almost impossible to see, the beard and fringes are flattened to the branch creating a perfect match and avoiding any shadow being cast. Small members have tails mimicking leaves, bodies resemble dead leaves and twigs. Overall this species is a master at disguise. Large eyes help this nocturnal species hunt its prey, large mouths are capable of tackling over sized prey. The common leaf-tailed gecko has more teeth than any other lizard on earth. After a night’s hunting an individual will often return to the same resting place, reports of lichen covered branches with bare patches where the geckos rest are reported. Color change is possible and most dramatic at night, some specimens can be stunning in colors of lichen and mosses from pinks to oranges, on the other hand some can be dull patterns of browns.

This species is totally adapted to life in a primary rain forest, so cryptic are their disguises species and sub-species are still being discovered today. The locals are afraid of them and refer to them as the devil. When disturbed larger members of the species especially Uroplatus fimbriatus stand up open mouthed and let out a large hiss, to an observer I can imagine a branch “coming to life” and hissing at you would be disturbing.

In captivity a tropical rain forest set-up is required heavily planted with lots of climbing branches. I would highly recommend live plants & mosses planted in a peat substrate, as high humidity is required. As with all highly humid vivariums air circulation is essential to avoid stagnant air. This species does not like it hot and will dehydrate quickly if kept so. A temperature range of 75-80°F is ideal remember this species will not move during the day unless disturbed, so it will hopefully settle in a thermally comfortable place itself. Water requirements are critical especially when dealing with newly acquired specimens. Re-hydration is critical and should be done as a priority, once settled they usually adapt well to drinking from a dish at night, regular sprays are essential. To stimulate drinking gentle airflow in the water dish works well. Food can consist of all suitably sized commercially produced live foods, and hedge sweeping, remember to only collect from areas you are sure pesticides have not been used. Nectar may be licked.
On a final note after you have carefully made your “rain forest”, marveled at your achievements and settled your gecko in, it will probably rest all day on the glass doors! A happy, hydrated leaf-tailed gecko of the following species should be resting head down with a completely flat tail: U. fimbriatus, U. henkeli, U. sikorae.

The species:

Common leaf-tailed geckos Uroplatus fimbriatus This species is as its name suggests the most common species on Madagascar, and the largest. Occurring along almost the length of the east side, in primary rain forest. Attaining a total length of almost 30cm this is one of the biggest geckos in the world. It can be distinguished from other large species by its amber eyes with vertically striped pattern. Usually two eggs are laid in leaf litter and take 90 days+.

Henkles leaf-tailed geckos Uroplatus henkeli This is one of the most variable colored species. Specimens can range from almost completely white to stunning oranges and pinks, with all the mossy colors in between. Attaining a total length of 25cm it is slightly smaller than the common leaf-tail and differences can be seen in the eyes. This species usually has pink eyes with little or no markings. Usually two but up to four eggs are laid on the forest floor where they take 90 days+ to hatch. This species is found in the north west of the island.

Mossy leaf-tailed geckos Uroplatus sikorae This species is one of my favorite, smaller than the before mentioned species reaching a total length of 18.5cm. Resembling a lichen or mossy branch some species have “twig” like pimples and bumps. Occurring on the on the east coast and northern tip on off shore islands. A sub-species is recognized on the island of Nosy boraha U. s. sameiti, difference in the sub-species can be determined by the inner coloration of the mouth U. sikorae has a black mouth whereas U. s. sameiti has a flesh colored inner mouth. Again usually two eggs are laid and hatch after 90 days+.

Lined leaf-tailed gecko Uroplatus lineatus This species occurs in the north east in bamboo forest. As its name suggests it has several longitudinal brown lines on the body and head, on a yellow background. Reaching a length of 25cm its quite a large gecko, the inner mouth is black in color, its tail is slim compared to the above species and is used in display, waving it slowly. In captivity bamboo canes work well.

Satanic leaf-tailed geckos (American name) Uroplatus phantasticus This is a stunning species reaching a total length of 9cm, its range is the central eastern side of the island. This species mimics to great success a dead leaf, its whole body resembles a curled up leaf, its tail leaf shaped. This is a truly amazing gecko. Coloration can be brown/grey to amazing yellows, green, oranges, and pinks. Called the Satanic leaf-tailed geckos as this species looks like it has “horns”, and some specimens have red eyes. Two eggs are laid and hatch after 60-70 days.

Nosey be leaf-tailed gecko Uroplatus ebenaui Found at the north western tip of the island, and surrounding islands. This species is similar to U. phantasticus but slightly larger in body, with a very small tail. Again this species mimics dead leafs well and can be very hard to spot even in captivity. Two eggs are laid and take 60-70 days to hatch.

The following species are very rarely imported, if ever and are locally rare in Madagascar.
Uroplatus alluaudi Only known from the type locality.
Uroplatus malahelo discovered in 1994 and only known from two specimens.
Uroplatus guentheri West coast.

Overall this is a wonderful gecko to keep and hopefully breed, not that common in collections, its unusual appearance gives it a certain appeal.

Panther Chameleons

Chameleons
Chameleons are amazing creatures, but sometimes are not the best choice as pets. They are not for the beginner and their requirements are quite specific, and they are easily stressed. They do not like to be handled so pass this reptile by if you want to be able to handle your reptile.

True (also known as old world) chameleons are most well known for their ability to change color. Young chameleons are usually a dull gray/brown color and can change shades a bit, but at around 5 months of age the adult color and the ability to change colors develops and a range of colors including green, blue green, turquoise and black can be seen. Changing colors provides camouflage, temperature regulation and a means of communicating with other chameleons. Colors change in response to excitement, stress, temperature, lighting conditions, the presence of another chameleon, and other influences. Generally, a dark brown to black chameleon is stressed, with the brighter colors reflecting a happier mood. Also, different colors can be seen due to color mutations and other color phases.

Other features that make chameleons unique include their tongue, which is used to catch prey. The tongue can be up to 1.5 times the length of the body, allowing chameleons to effectively catch insects from a distance. They live in trees, and their feet have three toes pointing one way and two the other, giving them a good grip. Many species also have a prehensile tail, meaning it is also used to grip branches. They have globular eyes which rotate like turrets and move independently, allowing a chameleon to scan a wide radius around them for both hunting and protection. They are largely insectivorous, although some species eat some vegetation and some small invertebrates such as slugs.

When selecting a chameleon, it is without question best to find a captive bred one. Wild caught specimens are usually extremely stressed, carry a heavy parasite load, and difficult to acclimate to captive conditions. Chameleons are not the hardiest nor easiest reptile to keep and starting with a stressed pet will only make matters worse. In addition, the capture and shipping of chameleons (which fortunately is being more tightly regulated) results in the death of many animals due to stress, dehydration or starvation - many more die in transit than make it to the pet store. (The same can be said for many exotic pet species.) Observe the chameleon - it should be bright and active, able to change colors, and have a well fleshed body. Some experienced chameleon keepers recommend a male, especially for the beginner, as their nutritional needs are somewhat simpler and they seem a little more hardy. Being territorial and solitary animals, chameleons should be kept singly. In any case, two males should never be kept together as they will be very aggressive with each other.

There are several species kept as pets, the most common being the veiled, Jackson's, and panther chameleons. Veiled chameleons are large (up to 2 feet long) and need a suitably large enclosure, but are fairly hardy. Jackson's chameleons are smaller (need less space), and the males look like little triceratops with three horns on the head, but they are not as hardy. Panther chameleons are also quite large (males are much larger than females), and exhibit some striking colors.

The natural habits of chameleons make them tricky to care for - they are arboreal, living exclusively in trees. They are solitary, and easily stressed. As a result, they need a cage with ample foliage for climbing and privacy. The enclosure must be quite large - for the larger chameleons a minimum of 3 feet by 3 feet by 4 feet tall should be provided - but the more space the better. Ample ventilation is required, and a cage screened on three sides is best, with poly mesh or vinyl coated wire preferred to prevent injury due to toes becoming caught. Lots of branches of various diameters need to be provided for climbing and the bulk of the cage space should be filled with branches or live foliage. Ensure that the plants are not toxic, as the chameleon may sample the foliage. Some enthusiasts recommend avoiding ficus plants as well. Substrate made up of small particles (gravel, sand, bark, moss) should be avoided to prevent the chameleon from accidentally eating it while catching prey. Several basking areas of various temperatures must also be provided, ranging from the upper limit of the species temperature preference to the loser end of the range, to allow the chameleons to thermo regulate. Jackson's chameleons do well at lower temperatures, but panther and veiled chameleons prefer warmer temperatures.

Chameleons do best with access to natural sunlight, but this is not feasible as a sole source of UV radiation for most owners. Incandescent and full spectrum (UV) fluorescent lighting is necessary. In addition, allowing some exposure to natural sunlight through an open window (glass filters out nearly all of the necessary UV radiation) will help keep chameleons happy and healthy (or placing the chameleon outdoors if the weather is appropriate, providing adequate shade to prevent overheating).

Chameleons get their water from droplets on leaves - as a rule they will not take water from a dish. Adequate water intake must be provided either through a drip system or by misting the enclosure at least twice daily. Drip systems can be purchased or fashioned from a water container with a pinhole placed on top of the cage, or even by placing ice cubes on top of the cage to melt slowly and drip into the cage. If a drip system is used, keep the watering location consistent so the chameleon knows where to find water. Misting will also help keep the humidity levels up. If a drip system is used, the excess water should be collected and removed though, to prevent the humidity from getting to high.

Chameleons seem to do best on a variety of insect foods. Try to feed as many types of insects as possible. Crickets, meal worms, super worms, wax worms, wax moths, non infesting roaches are all good items to feed. Prey food should be gut loaded with nutritious foods (leafy greens, vegetables, fruit) prior to feeding, and should be dusted with a calcium and vitamin D supplement. Chameleons may be susceptible to overdosing with vitamin A (hypervitaminosis A) so supplements must be balanced carefully. Again, the care sheets below cover details of supplementation. Keep in mind that egg laying females will need extra calcium supplies. Also, some nutritious leafy green (avoid spinach, lettuce, and cabbage) and other vegetables and fruits can be offered in small amounts as chameleons will occasionally sample these.

Chameleons are easily stressed, so cages should be placed in low traffic areas (a quiet room is ideal), and barriers (e.g. lots of foliage in the cage) between the chameleon and household activity should be provided. Avoid handling the chameleon and when observing the chameleon move slowly. They are fascinating and amazing, but need some special considerations to keep them stress free and healthy.

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The Meller's Chameleon

The Meller's chameleon is the largest of the chameleons not native to Madagascar. Their stout bodies can grow to be up to two feet (two-thirds of a meter) long and weigh more than a pound (one-half kilogram).

Meller's distinguish themselves from their universally bizarre-looking cousins with a single small horn protruding from the front of their snouts. This and their size earn them the common name "giant one-horned chameleon."

They are fairly common in the savanna of East Africa, including Malawi, northern Mozambique, and Tanzania. Almost one-half of the world’s chameleons live on the island of Madagascar.

As with all chameleons, Meller's will change colors in response to stress and to communicate with other chameleons. Their normal appearance is deep green with yellow stripes and random black spots. Females are slightly smaller, but are otherwise indistinguishable from males.

They subsist on insects and small birds, using their camouflage and a lightning-fast, catapulting tongue, which can be up to 20 inches (50 centimeters) long, to ambush prey.

Exotic pet enthusiasts often attempt to keep Meller's chameleons as pets. However, they are highly susceptible to even the slightest level of stress and are very difficult to care for in captivity. In the wild, they can live as long as 12 years.

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