Spider Fun

The Spider's Silk: As part of the arachnid class spiders have two main body segments: the cephalothorax and abdomen. Their ability to produce silk separates spiders from other arachnids. The silk is used to capture prey in elaborately woven webs, to wrap and protect eggs, and as a bungee-like cord to move from place to place.

Toxin Toolkit: Almost all spiders have venom-injecting fangs, which they use to kill their prey. Some spiders inject a neurotoxin, which affects the victim's nervous system, typically resulting in paralysis. Others inject a cytotoxin, which damages the victim's cellular tissue.

An Extra Set of Hands: Two leglike pedipalps located near the spider's head are used in a variety of ways. One of the most important is bringing food to the mouth. In adult males, the ends of the pedipalps are modified and used for the transfer of sperm during mating. Spiders also use their pedipalps for sensing their environment; sensitive hairs pick up vibrations, air currents and even scent.

Spiders, Spiders Everywhere: At least 40,000 species of spider have been described by science, but this number only accounts for one-third to one-fifth of all spider species on earth. Spiders can be found in just about every terrestrial habitat and some water ones as well, from tropical rain forests, woodlands, caves and gardens to your home.

Sacrificial Males: A female spider will often kill the male shortly after mating. By feeding the female, who will ultimately lay and tend the resulting fertilized eggs, the male ensures that his genes will carry on. In lieu of self-sacrifice, some male spiders will offer a fly or other meal to the female before mating.

Super-Sized Spider: The Goliath birdeater tarantula, the world's largest spider, can grow to the size of a dinner plate. As its name suggests, it's been known to prey on birds.

Strong Like Steel: The silk of the orb weaver spiders rivals the tensile strength of high-grade steel, but is much less dense. It would make a great substitute for Kevlar in bullet-proof vests — if only spiders could produced enough silk.

The Eyes Have It: To match their eight legs, most spiders have eight eyes that are arranged in a variety of ways depending on the species. Some spiders have six, four, two or even — in the case of cave-dwelling species — no eyes.

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Monitor Lizards

Pic: Nile Monitor

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS:

Monitors belong to the family Varanidae. Some are small reptiles of less than a foot in length, while the Komodo dragon, the largest living lizard, grows to 364 lb. All monitors are tropical reptiles. They are active lizards, that may be very hostile, lashing out with their tails upon the slightest provocation. Even a small monitor can produce a stinging lash with its tail.

The claws of monitors are long and sharp. The jaws are very strong. Once they bite something it is very difficult to get them to let go.

Monitors are carnivorous and will devour anything they are capable of dismembering and gulping down. Species which live in or near water will readily eat fish.

Monitors do not divest themselves of their tails, like some other lizards. Once lost, the tail of a monitor does not grow back.

The Savanna monitor, Varanus exanthematicus, is also known as the Cape monitor. It grows to 5 feet. Its body is olive brown, mostly unmarked. A few have cross bands on the body; pale spots ringed in dark brown to black forming the cross bands.

They are found in western and central Africa in open forest and rocky savannas, in hot, arid areas. They bask frequently and are agile both on land and in water.

The Nile monitor, Varanus niloticus, grows to 6 feet. It is dark brown-black with pale to yellow bands and spots forming broken cross bands on the body.

It is distributed in Africa except the northwest. It stays close to water, and can dive for up to one hour. It is very agile on land and in the water. It is diurnal.

BEHAVIOR:

Many species hold their heads erect on their long necks, which gives them the appearance of being alert. They intimidate predators by lashing out with their tails, inflating their throats, hissing loudly, turning sideways, and compressing their bodies.

They are mostly terrestrial, but many are agile climbers and good swimmers. The tail is somewhat compressed in tree dwellers, very compressed in semiaquatic monitors.

Monitors threaten by opening the mouth, inflating the neck and hissing. The ribs may spread, flattening the top of the body, or the body may just expand slightly. This makes the monitor look larger than it actually is. It often raises up on its hind legs just before attacking. The tail delivers a well-aimed blow.

DIET:

Monitors tend to swallow their prey whole, like snakes. Monitors are daytime lizards and most species actively search for food. Some species eat carrion, giant land snails, grasshoppers, beetles, whip scorpions, crocodile and birds; eggs, crabs, fish, other lizards, snakes, nestling birds, shrews and squirrels.

REPRODUCTION and GROWTH:

Combat between males is frequently observed during the breeding season in some species. Monitors lay 7 to 35 soft-shelled eggs, usually deposited in holes in riverbanks or in trees along water courses. The Nile monitor often lays its eggs in termite nests. There is little or no sexual dimorphism (difference in appearance).

Eggs are 2 inches long with leathery shells. Incubation is 8 to 10 weeks. The young use an egg tooth to emerge.

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Do I always have to feed just crickets and mealworms to my herps?

Collecting Live Food for Reptiles and Amphibians: an Entomologist’s Technique

by Frank Indiviglio

Wild-caught insects and other invertebrates are valuable, and often essential, additions to the diets of many captive reptiles and amphibians. During the warmer months, I have utilized them for 50-100% of the diets of many animals in my own collection, and for those under my care in zoos.

Beating the Bushes for Insects

One of the simplest and most effective collecting techniques was developed by entomologists (insect scientists) who needed to sample large habitats quickly. Here it is: a white, un-patterned sheet is spread below a bush or tree, and the foliage is then beaten with a stick. That’s it!

An incredible assortment of caterpillars, beetles, ants, tree crickets, katydids, spiders and other tasty morsels will rain down upon the sheet, where they can be easily collected. The majority will be arboreal species – healthful additions to the diets of tree frogs, flying geckos, smooth green snakes and other tree-dwelling creatures, and to all other insectivorous herps.

Identifying Potentially Troublesome Species

Do not collect fireflies, “hairy” or "tent"caterpillars (please see photo), and brightly colored insects that you cannot identify (due to possible toxicity). Unless you are well-acquainted with local spiders, it is best to avoid them as well…harvestmen, or “daddy long-legs”, however, are harmless.

Use our stainless steel tongs to handle any specimens that may bite or sting. A Peterson or Audubon Society field guide will help you to learn about the innumerable interesting creatures that you will encounter.

A World of Possibilities

You’ll have quite a selection to choose from, wherever you live. Over 2,000 types of insects live right within New York City, and it is estimated that 30 million species inhabit the planet. A single tree in Panama has yielded 130 species of beetle, 100 of which were new to science!

Insect Traps and Canned Insects

Pitfall traps are another way of trapping insects, see article below. An alternative means of introducing variety to your pets’ diets is through the use of canned invertebrates.

Collecting Live Food for Amphibians and Reptiles: Pitfall Traps

Hello, Frank Indiviglio here. Prehistoric cave paintings show that the pitfall trap, a simple covered or uncovered hole designed to capture animals, came into being very early in our evolution as a species. Indeed, they are still used by hunters and field researchers today. Pitfall traps also provide pet keepers with a simple, effective means of collecting live food for reptiles, amphibians, tarantulas, scorpions, mantids and other terrarium animals.

Building and Baiting the Trap

To create a pitfall trap, simple bury a can or jar flush with the ground and cover it with a board that is slightly elevated by small stones. This will keep rain out while allowing invertebrates to enter.

An amazing assortment of creatures will simply stumble into such a trap, but you can increase its effectiveness by adding bait. A bit of ripe fruit, molasses, honey and some tropical fish flakes will lure all sorts of insects, sow bugs and other invertebrates (snails and slugs are especially fond of beer). Be sure to keep some dead leaves or paper towels in the trap as well, to provide places for your catch to hide and keep away from one another.

Boards or other cover spread about an area, which can be easily turned and checked, will also attract a variety of insects. Spraying the area with a hose during dry weather will attract increased numbers of invertebrates to these shelters.

Cautions

Always use caution when examining your catch, as potentially dangerous spiders, scorpions, hornets and other such creatures may be present. Have a good field guide on hand if you are unfamiliar with local species, and use feeding tongs to remove animals from the trap.

Native Beetles in the Terrarium

If your interests extend to native invertebrates, your trap will likely provide you with some pleasant surprises.

One of my favorite and rather frequent catches is the caterpillar hunter (Calosoma scrutator), a widespread beetle that feeds upon caterpillars and other soft-bodied insects (a relative, the forest caterpillar hunter, was imported to the USA from Europe in 1905 to battle gypsy moths).

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Ball Python Habitat

by Dr.FS
Ball Pythons are great for new snake owners, as they are fairly easy to care for. However, though they are not difficult snakes to maintain, it is just as important to set up their habitat properly as it would be with any other reptile. They have unique housing requirements that are necessary to preserve their overall health and well-being. The following tips will help you to set up the best habitat possible for your Ball Python.

Fresh Air Screen Cover with Cover Clips Dome light with ceramic heater and black or red reptile bulb Fluorescent Strip Light with UV Bulb, on a Timer For a more streamlined look, consider using a combination heat/light fixture like "The Slider" Reptile Hood or Zilla Combo Fixture. Thermometers and Hygrometer Artificial Plants for cover Hide Box Water Bowl Climbing branches, like Bamboo Bars Terrarium Carpet Liner or other safe substrate Under Tank Heater (UTH)

Enclosure/Cage
The size of the terrarium will vary with the age of the snake. Young hatchlings will only need a 10 to 20 gallon terrarium. However, as your Ball Python ages and grows longer, a significantly larger terrarium will be necessary. Young adults need at least a 20 gallon terrarium, and full grown adults will need at least a 30 gallon terrarium. A good rule of thumb to follow is that the perimeter (two times the width plus two times the length) of the enclosure should be two times the length of your snake. Keep in mind that if you purchase a smaller terrarium when you have a younger snake, you will have to upgrade it later, possibly more than once.

Ball Pythons are excellent escape artists, so a tight fitting lid or door with a lock is an absolute necessity. It should be made of wire mesh to provide proper ventilation.

Appropriate substrates that you can use in the enclosure include cypress mulch, paper towels, terrarium carpet liners, and newspaper. Never use shavings. Be sure to keep some extra substrate around so you can switch it when it becomes soiled. Substrates like terrarium carpet liners can be cleaned and reused.

Landscaping and Cage Accessories
There are two main things that your Ball Python absolutely must have in his enclosure - a hide box and climbing branches. Because they are nocturnal, Ball Pythons will spend most of their days in the hide box, which can be a hollow log, a wide terra cotta flower pot turned upside down with the drain hole enlarged, a cardboard box, or any other item that provides darkness. The hide box must be big enough that your snake can fit his entire body in it, but not so big that it is significantly larger than your snake.

Climbing branches will provide both a hiding place and a basking area for your snake. Using artificial greenery to screen part of the branches from view will give your snake a place to curl up out of sight. Putting the branches in the basking area of the cage will allow him to climb closer to the heat source if he needs to raise his body temperature.

Other landscaping can include a few large rocks for your Ball Python to bask on and a small pool of water where he can drink from and submerge himself occasionally. A food dish is not required in the habitat as Ball Pythons should be placed in separate enclosures (such as a large plastic container or tub) for feeding.

Temperature
We recommend maintaining the temperature of the habitat at 77° to 85°F during the day, with a 90°F basking area, and at 69° to 75°F overnight. Use two thermometers to monitor temperature, one under the light in the basking area and one near the floor on the other side of the enclosure.

Primary heat sources are used to regulate the ambient temperature throughout the entire enclosure. In your Ball Python's habitat you can use under tank heaters and overhead ceramic heaters. You can also use infrared heat bulbs or room heaters to maintain the terrarium temperature at night.

Secondary heat sources are used to create hot spots in the cage, such as the basking area, and for this, you should use a 75 watt or lower incandescent light bulbs with a reflector. These should only be placed at the end of the enclosure used for the basking area.

Avoid using heat rocks as a heat source, as they will burn your Ball Python when he rubs against or touches them.

Light
Ball Pythons require a basic 12 hour light / 12 hour dark photo period. "Daylight" periods should be increased to 14 hours in the summer and decreased to 12 hours in the winter. Changes between seasons should be made gradually to mimic the natural shortening and lengthening of the days.

Full spectrum lighting isn't required, but it is recommended as it is beneficial for proper vitamin and mineral metabolism. Use daylight or full spectrum with low wattage during the day. No nighttime lights are necessary, though, as mentioned above, you can use an infrared heat bulb if necessary.

All lights should be outside the enclosure and screened in to prevent injury.

Humidity
Ball Pythons naturally live in a climate with fairly low humidity, so the humidity in their enclosure should be no more than 50% to 60%. When your snake is shedding, you may need to increase the humidity to 65%, or you can mist the enclosure daily.

Water
Ball Pythons should always have access to a pool of water for drinking and submersing themselves. The pool should be a heavy container your snake cannot knock over, and the water will need to be changed daily, as Ball Pythons often defecate in their water. The water temperature should be approximately 72° to 79°F, and any water added to the pool should be the same temperature.

Cleaning
A proper cleaning schedule is important to maintain your Ball Python's health. Every day you should replace soiled substrate and change the water. You will also need to clean and disinfect the entire enclosure as needed, usually about once every one to two weeks. To do this, you can use a 5% bleach solution with water. Be sure to rinse everything thoroughly after cleaning it, and always wash your hands after handling your snake or anything in the enclosure.

Housing More Than One Ball Python
If you have the room, you can house two Ball Pythons together. You will need a significantly bigger enclosure as well as more hide spots throughout it. The two Ball Pythons must be approximately the same size when housed together, and the new one must be quarantined until you are sure that he or she is not carrying any diseases. You will most likely have to feed them in two separate enclosures, and there is always a chance that they will not eat if housed together, so be sure to have an extra enclosure handy in case you need to house them separately.

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Russian Tortoise Care

Russian Tortoises are native to dry, arid regions, and there are a number of habitat requirements that are necessary to create a safe and healthy environment for them. The following tips will help you to put together and maintain the right habitat for your Russian Tortoise.

Enclosure
In many areas of the country, Russian Tortoises can be kept outside for some or all of the year, while in other, cooler areas, they can only be kept outside during warmer months. Therefore, we will discuss how to set up both indoor and outdoor enclosures in this article.

Indoor enclosures are necessary for hatchlings and juvenile Russian Tortoises as well as in areas where it is too cold outside for them to be kept year round. Terrariums can be made from glass or plastic. Glass can also make it difficult to maintain the proper humidity. Additionally, Russian Tortoises will often try to walk through glass enclosures because they don't understand that they can't get out. If you do use a glass terrarium, be sure to use paint or tape around the bottom 5" to 6" of the enclosure.

The size of the terrarium should be proportional to the size of the tortoise. A good rule to go by is that it should be 10 times as long as the tortoise's length, 5 times as wide as the tortoise's width, and 3 times as high as the tortoise's length. The minimum size should be 2 feet by 4 feet. A 50 gallon terrarium or clear plastic storage container works well. If you start out with a smaller enclosure, be prepared to upgrade to a larger one as your tortoise grows.

Outdoor enclosures will also need to be large, and you can put your tortoise in it as long as the temperature is 40° F or higher. The enclosure should be at least 6 feet by 10 feet for one to six tortoises, and it must be secure. Because Russian Tortoises can dig tunnels, the walls should extend at least 8" to 10" underground. They are also good climbers, so the sides of the enclosure must be at least 16" high. An outdoor enclosure should be situated in an area where it will get plenty of sun, is generally dry, and has good drainage for when it does rain.

Even if you house your Russian Tortoise inside for most of the year, you should still set up an outdoor pen. Just three hours outside each day during warmer months can have significant health benefits.

Substrate can be a mixture of sand and garden soil, coconut fiber, or peat moss, and it should be deep enough that your tortoise can burrow into it. Although Russian Tortoises live in arid regions, they commonly burrow, which provides and environment that is more humid. Be sure to prevent substrate from completely drying out and avoid using dusty substrates.

Landscaping & Cage Accessories
There are a number of items that your tortoise will need in its enclosure. Place a shallow water dish in one end for your tortoise to soak in. This should be deep enough that it can wet a good portion of its shell, but not so deep that it can drown. A hide box should be located in the cool end, at the opposite end of the enclosure from the basking area. The hide box should be sturdy, as Russian Tortoises are unintentionally destructive to flimsy decorations and shelters. Half logs or wooden boxes work well.

Other items that can be placed in the enclosure include rocks, logs, and tunnels that your tortoise can climb on, in, and under, but take care not to clutter the terrarium. Russian Tortoises need plenty of room to move around.

Temperature
The basking area should be the warmest spot in the cage with a temperature of approximately 90° to 95° F. The temperature gradients throughout the cage should go from the warmest spot of the basking area to the low 70s at the opposite end. At night, the temperatures should lower into the 60s. Daytime and nighttime temperatures should be monitored with a thermometer.

Primary heat sources, which are sources used to maintain the ambient temperature in the terrarium, can include ceramic emitters and under tank heaters. Do not use heat rocks in the enclosure. Secondary heat sources, or heat sources used to create warmer areas such as the basking area, can include incandescent heat lamps or infrared bulbs. The combination of heat sources you choose to use depends on the size and type of the enclosure and the overall temperatures in your home.

Light
Tortoises need approximately 12 hours of light followed by 12 hours of darkness. You must use a Full spectrum light with UVB over your tortoise's terrarium for 12 to 14 hours (depending on the season) every day. UVB light encourages proper Vitamin D3 synthesis, and it helps with proper skeletal and shell development.

Additional light should come from a 100watt incandescent spot light over the basking area. This should be turned off at night. You can use red bulbs at night, but it is not necessary.

Humidity
Proper humidity levels are very important to the overall health of your Russian Tortoise. Because they are native to an arid climate, they need relatively low humidity, so levels should be no higher than 60%.

You may have heard that humidity isn't that important because Russian Tortoises are very adaptable. Though some may be able to deal with a slightly higher humidity, 60% is the best level for optimum health. Russian Tortoises have little tolerance for cold, wet, or humid conditions, and constant exposure to those types of environments can cause a number of health issues, including pneumonia, shell rot, and eye infections. Just as excess humidity can cause problems, low humidity can cause severe medical problems. Therefore, it is best to keep humidity levels around 60% and monitor them with a hygrometer.

Cleaning
Change the water in the shallow dish and spot clean the enclosure daily. A full cleaning should be done with a 5% bleach solution regularly, no less than once every couple weeks. Be sure to rinse everything thoroughly before placing the substrate back in the terrarium so all traces of bleach are removed. Always wash your hands thoroughly after cleaning your tortoise's enclosure.

Housing More than One Russian Tortoise
Russian Tortoises cannot be housed with other species, as they will be aggressive towards them. They are also aggressive to their own species, and more than one male should never be kept in the same terrarium. If you are going to keep more than one Russian Tortoise, make sure that there is only one male per enclosure.

Purchase or set up a very large habitat to give all the tortoises plenty of room, and use sight-line breaks to provide them with hiding places and a sense of isolation. Sight-line breaks can include plants, piles of rocks, and wooden shelters like hide boxes. Improperly setup habitats for multiple Russian Tortoises can result in the male damaging the females.

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Why a Pet Lizard Needs UVB Lighting

Lizard Lights - Why a Pet Lizard Needs UVB Lighting

by Brandon Cornett

If you plan to keep a lizard as a pet, you need to provide the proper lighting. This means using a special light that emits UVB rays. In this article, we will talk about these so-called lizard lights and why they are important.

Each year, reptile veterinarians across the country treat thousands of lizards for metabolic bone disorder (MBD). This is when the animal's bones become soft to the point of deformity. This condition results from a lack of vitamin D synthesis within the lizard's body. It occurs in many different types of lizard, but is most common in green iguanas and various chameleon species (species that are popular in the pet trade).

The Basics of UVB and Lizard Health

Here's what you, as a reptile keeper, should know about lizard lights and UVB exposure:

• In the wild, lizards spend a lot of their time basking in the sun.
• The sun emits different kinds of rays, including UVB rays.
• Lizards (and other types of reptiles) benefit from the UVB rays of the sun. These rays help them produce vitamin D within their bodies.
• Vitamin D is essential for proper bone density and development.
• When a lizard is unable to synthesize vitamin D, its bones will not develop properly.
• So, by extension, a lizard that lacks sufficient UVB exposure will suffer from bone-develop problems. Metabolic bone disorder is the most common of these problems.
• Lizards that are kept as pets usually do not get enough natural sun exposure, if any.
• If your lizard is not exposed to the sun on a daily basis, you must provide an alternate source of UVB light for the animal. There are many excellent products on the market today that can help you accomplish this.

Sadly, many people who keep lizards as pets do not understand the connection between UVB light rays, vitamin D, and bone development. This is why metabolic bone disorder (MBD) is the number-one ailment in lizards, as reported by veterinarians.

Lizard Lights to the Rescue

When I refer to lizard lights in this article, I'm talking about fluorescent bulbs that are designed specifically for lizards and other reptiles with high UV requirements. You can buy these bulbs in the tube form you're probably familiar with, or as spiral-shaped compact fluorescent lights (CFL). The important thing is that you get a light that provides enough UVB for the lizard species you are keeping.

How much UVB is enough? Zoo Med Laboratories (a company that sells lizard lights and other reptile products) has conducted some extensive research over the last few years. Here is what they recommend:

• Tropical lizards, such as chameleons and green iguanas, should be exposed to UVB levels of 13 to 30 W/cm² (microwatts per square centimeter). They should have access to such lighting for 10 - 12 hours a day.
• Desert lizards such as bearded dragons will generally do well with the same level mentioned above, or slightly higher UVB levels.

Source: "Reptiles and UVB," Zoo Med Laboratories.

Most UVB lights that are sold today are clearly labeled with these specifications. So purchasing the right kind of bulb is pretty straightforward.

UVB light should be used in conjunction with proper heat levels. If you create a habitat for your lizard that offers proper temperature and UVB levels, you will have a healthier animal. It's that simple. Of course, you need to provide the right kind of diet for your lizard species as well, but that's another lesson entirely.

Exo Terra (Hagen USA) is another leading developer of reptile products including Lizard lights, if you would like to download their free lighting Guide, Click Here!

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Leopard Gecko Habitat Setup

Leopard Gecko Habitat
by DFS
Though Leopard Geckos are some of the easiest lizards to care for, it is still very important that you set up their habitat properly. They have unique housing requirements that must be met if you want to maintain their overall health and well-being. The following tips will help you provide your Leopard Gecko with a healthy, safe, and enjoyable home.

Dome lamp and black or red reptile bulb or ceramic heater Mesh or screen top Thermometers and a hygrometer Artificial plants Moist hide box, filled with damp moss or Eco-Earth Dishes for water, mealworms, and calcium powder Cage Carpet or another gecko-safe substrate Under Tank Heater (UTH) if needed to maintain proper temperature Shelter or hideaway (at least one per gecko)

Enclosure/Cage
The best terrariums for Leopard Geckos are those that are long and shallow. The minimum size for one Leopard Gecko is 10 gallons, and you will need to increase the size of the terrarium if you have multiple lizards. A pair will need a 15-gallon tank, and three or four lizards will need at least a 20-gallon tank.

Wire cages are not acceptable. Leopard Geckos must be housed in glass terrariums for their safety and to prevent them from escaping. Unlike some other geckos, Leopard Geckos cannot climb glass very well. The terrarium should have a wire mesh lid that provides proper ventilation and allows light through.

The substrate that you use should be non-abrasive and non-irritating to your Leopard Gecko's sensitive skin. It should be something that you can easily clean and replace, and it should not create any type of dust. Improper use of substrate can result in infection, respiratory problems, and toxic reactions. Substrates to avoid include cedar, pine, hardwood chips, gravel, cat litter, sawdust, and corncob bedding. Safe substrate that you can use in your Leopard Gecko's enclosure includes artificial turf, paper toweling, and newspaper. Many people use sand as well, but there have been some instances of problems, including ingestion of the sand and sand in stools. If you are using sand and you see any problems developing, switch substrates immediately.

Landscaping, Furniture, and Plants
The items that you put in your Leopard Gecko's cage will help to make his environment as natural as possible, and the more elaborate the setup, the more you will encourage your gecko's natural behaviors. Things like rocks and logs will create a natural living space as well as provide him with places to climb and exercise. Live or artificial plants can be used to provide more hiding areas and a more natural feel, but they are not necessary. If you wish to use a live plant, choose carefully - by researching the plant or consulting a veterinarian - as some plants can be toxic to reptiles.

Every Leopard Gecko enclosure needs areas for three things: Hiding, activity, and basking. Hiding areas consist of commercial hide boxes, overlapping rocks, inverted clay pots and sections of curved bark, and any other shelter that supplies your gecko with a place to sleep and conceal himself. There should be at least two hiding areas, and the more geckos you house in one terrarium, the more hiding spots you will need.

Activity areas are open areas where your gecko can climb, exercise, or just move around. You can place smooth rocks and wood in these areas to facilitate climbing.

Basking areas can be a flat, smooth rock or wood under a light, and there should be at least one spot per gecko. The more geckos you have, the more basking spots you will need.

When creating the above areas, there are certain materials that you should not use. Avoid using sharp or abrasive rocks, as they can injure your Leopard Gecko's skin if he rubs against it during shedding. Cedar and other resinous woods should also be avoided, as they are toxic to Leopard Geckos.

Temperature
Leopard Geckos are "ectothermic," meaning that they cannot produce their own body heat, so they need supplemental heat sources. Their tank should be approximately 80° to 85°F during the day, and the basking area should be about 88°-90°F. Nighttime temperature should be in the 70s. To ensure that your gecko's enclosure is the proper temperature, use a thermometer.

However, the area outside of the basking spot should not be a uniform temperature. Leopard Geckos practice "thermoregulation," meaning that they will move into hotter or cooler areas to raise or lower their body temperature as needed. The terrarium should consist of several different temperature gradients, and there should be at least one hide in each gradient.

Primary heat sources are used to maintain the overall temperature throughout the cage, and they can include heat tapes, under tank heaters, and overhead heat sources.

Secondary heat sources are used to create hot spots (such as basking areas) within the cage, and they can include red or black basking lights.

Light
It is important to recreate natural light cycles when setting up your Leopard Gecko's habitat. During the summer, they should have approximately 14 hours of light following by 10 hours of darkness. During the winter, they need shorter daytime periods of about 12 hours of light followed by 12 hours of darkness. To achieve the desired photoperiods, we recommend that you use automatic timers. Changes between summer and winter photoperiods should be made gradually.

Lights that you can use include black heat lamps (day and night) and red lamps (day and night). Since Leopard Geckos are nocturnal and dislike bright light, the use of UV bulbs is not necessary. In fact, if exposed to bright white light, the Leopard Gecko may become stressed. Make sure there are plenty of areas in the terrarium throughout the various temperature gradients where your gecko can hide and get out of the light. All light bulbs should be placed outside the terrarium above the lid.

Humidity
Leopard Geckos have very specific humidity requirements to encourage proper shedding cycles and prevent dehydration. A high humidity level can leave your gecko more susceptible to infections. The ideal humidity level should be 40% or lower, and you should monitor it using a hygrometer. Leopard Geckos require "humidified shelters" or a "moist box" to help facilitate shedding. These moist hideaways can be created by lining a shelter or box with moist substrate, such as sphagnum moss, peat moss, damp soil or other products.

Cleaning
Keeping your Leopard Gecko's habitat clean is an important part of maintaining a healthy habitat. Daily chores include:

• Remove waste, debris, dead feeder insects, and shed skin.
• Remove and clean any objects that have fecal matter on them.
• Clean and disinfect water bowls.
• Remove and replace soiled substrate.

Weekly chores include:

• Clean and disinfect enclosure thoroughly.
• Clean and disinfect interior items such as decorations, feeding and watering items, and any other items in the terrarium.
• Replace soiled substrate.

Avoid using cleaners that contain phenols or pine scents, as these are toxic to your gecko. If you are unsure of what products to use or how to use them, consult your veterinarian.

Because Leopard Geckos are nocturnal, the best time to clean the enclosure is at dusk or during the early morning hours. This will prevent you from disturbing their natural sleep cycles and causing unnecessary stress.

Water
Leopard Geckos need constant access to clean water. Provide water in a flat, shallow bowl, and change it daily. If there is fecal matter or drowned feeder insects in the water, change it immediately. Avoid using deep bowls, as this will limit your gecko's access to his water as well as present a drowning hazard to both your gecko and the feeder insects you give him.

Housing Multiple Leopard Geckos
Male Leopard Geckos are instinctually very territorial, so you can only have one male per enclosure. Females can be territorial as well, but it isn't as common as in males. If you plan to house multiple Leopard Geckos, be sure to purchase multiple females or multiple females and one male. Always watch them for signs of territoriality and aggression, and set up the habitat in such a way that it provides multiple hiding and activity areas. Because housing multiple geckos requires more space, we recommend a terrarium no smaller than 20 gallons for three or more geckos.

For a complete selection of Leopard gecko Supplies check out our website at http://www.thereptileking.com, don't forget to enter to win an Exo Terra Cameroon habitat kit and live reptile!

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CARING FOR YOUR WATER DRAGON

CARING FOR YOUR WATER DRAGON

The water dragon is a diurnal, semi-aquatic, arboreal, tropical lizard of Asia and Australia. If you're considering buying a water dragon, here are some facts about this lizard.

Appearance

The Asian water dragon is mainly green, with darker areas on the head and joints. The chin and throat are white to light yellow, and the underside is white to pale green. Water dragons do not have a dewlap, but possess large skin folds. A prominent dorsal crest runs from the neck to the tail. Juveniles are typically diagonally banded with 3 to 5 light stripes, usually pale blue to green in color, that disappear with age.

The eastern water dragon, from Australia, resembles the Asian water dragon in size and shape but is brown, with a gray to gray-brown underside. Broad black and narrow white crossbars run through the back and the tail of the animal.
A prominent dark horizontal stripe may be visible on each side of the head, starting from the eye toward the neck. Like the Asian species, a dorsal crest runs from the head to the tail.

Size and Longevity

Most adults usually reach 16 inches in length – the tail counting for half to two-thirds of the length - but some can reach up to a meter in length. They can live up to 11 years.

Behavior

Water dragons are less aggressive and more placid than green iguanas, although they are prone to intense spurts of speed. They also are smaller and more manageable than green iguanas, but like most diurnal lizards they require a spacious vivarium with high quality lighting and heating. All lizards can excrete salmonella, so it's important to be careful about personal hygiene and supervise children around these creatures.

This species is active but usually timid. They may attempt to flee when disturbed. Water dragons can sometimes be intolerant to other animals, so it's recommended to keep either a pair (male and female) or a maximum of a male and two females, together in a single vivarium.

Housing and Environment

In the wild, water dragons live in humid, sub-tropical to tropical forests, wooded streams and rocky littoral.

One to two water dragons can be kept in a 5 1/2-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot vivarium, but larger enclosures permit landscaping, a bigger water pool and overall better aesthetics of the setup. The vivarium should be high enough to install branches so the lizard can bask under a heat lamp or spotlight during the day.

These lizards are semi-aquatic and need a large water area in their enclosure, covering preferably at least a third of the floor. The water should be maintained at 77 degrees Fahrenheit. In most cases general vivarium heating will be sufficient, but an aquarium heater or a heat mat placed under the water container, can be used. The pool of water also will provide high humidity, which is essential for these lizards.

For hygienic reasons, line the floor with newspaper, granulated bark, artificial turf or alfalfa pellets. Replace the floor covering daily or weekly, depending on contamination. In addition to the branches, provide boxes, pieces of bark or hollow tree parts for hideouts.

Water dragons will try to escape from an unsuitable environment or evade dominant cage-mates. They do not seem to perceive glass, screen, or other clear material as a barrier and might hurt their nose by attempting to escape through these surfaces. Creating a visual barrier – putting tape across the glass – might help them see these obstacles and avoid injury.

Diet

Water dragons are mainly carnivorous, feeding on a variety of invertebrates, small mammals, birds, lizards, frogs, and on rare occasions, fruits and plant matter. In captivity they should be fed insects – crickets, locusts and wax worms – and the occasional pinky mice.

All insects should be nutrient "gut loaded" by feeding a commercial insect food or a mix of crushed fish pellets and calcium supplement, with a slice of potato for moisture. In addition, insects should be thoroughly dusted with a high calcium supplement immediately prior to feeding. It is wise to vary the food items to avoid potential nutrient excesses or deficiencies and multivitamins can be added to the dusting formula once or twice a week.

Juveniles should be fed the same diet as the adults, making sure smaller food items are used. As they grow they may accept some fruits, as well as pink mice. Juveniles should be fed every day, while adults can be fed every other day or two to three times a week.

Temperature and Humidity

Heat should be provided by a background heater (tubular heater, infrared through heaters, heat mats, etc.) and a radiant daytime heater (infrared ceramic bulbs, incandescent spotlights). These should be screened in order to prevent any contact burns with the water dragon.

The diurnal temperature variation is vital for proper digestion and assimilation of food and general health. A daytime temperature gradient of 77 to 86 F, with a basking area of 90 to 95 F, should be lowered to 72 to 77 F at night. Use a digital in/out thermometer with maximum/minimum memory to record the day and night thermal gradients within the vivarium.

Humidity of 80 to 100 percent is required for at least part of the day. If the large water area does not create enough humidity in the vivarium, regular spraying can help. Never reduce ventilation to increase humidity.

Lighting

The recommended photoperiod is 12 to 14 hours of light and 10 to 12 hours of darkness. Ideally, provide access to unfiltered sunlight, but if this is not possible, provide a full spectrum light source, which must be placed within 12 inches of the basking sites and replaced every six months for juveniles or 12 months for adults.

Sexing

Males are larger than the females, and their dorsal crest is more developed. Although both sexes possess pre-femoral pores, they are much more developed in the mature male. A hemipenal bulge also can be seen at the base of the tail in mature males.

Breeding

Sexual maturitycan be reached at one year of age. Breeding usually occurs during the winter and early spring. Males in breeding condition will become brightly colored from golden-yellow to deep orange on the chin, chest and side of the head. The female water dragon can lay up to five clutches of eggs in one season, each clutch containing 10 to 15 eggs.

An egg-laying container should be placed in a remote area of the vivarium for egg laying. The eggs are best incubated on damp vermiculite at 82 to 86 F and the babies should hatch between 60 and 101 days. Neonates measure around 6 inches in length at birth. Their care is similar to the adults. They should be raised in groups and fed on insects dusted with mineral supplements and given access to unfiltered sunlight or broad-spectrum, artificial lighting.

Visit The Reptile King for all your water dragon supplies!

Exo Terra Habitat Kit Cameroon Available Now!

Explore the rain forests of Cameroon with Exo Terra. During these Exo Terra expeditions, three new reptile species have been discovered !

The Exo Terra Cameroon Rainforest Habitat Kit is the ideal set-up for the beginner herpetoculturist! The kit comes with all of the components necessary to give your terrarium hobby a successful start - including the Exo Terra Glass Terrarium, designed by European herpetologists.
An instruction manual is included to guide you through the process of installation, decoration and maintenance of the Exo Terra Cameroon Rainforest Terrarium Kit.

Ideal for: Small species of snakes, frogs, lizards and geckos.

Consult your retailer for advice on the care of your chosen species and their specific requirements for additional equipment, such as: heat source; bulb type; food & supplements.

Choosing the right bulb

Many reptiles have different requirements when it comes to lighting. As this habitat is recommended for various reptile species, please use the table below as a guide to help you select the correct bulb.

Repti Glo 2.0

This bulb is suitable for snakes, all amphibians (frogs, toads and salamanders) and nocturnal animals.

Repti Glo 5.0

This bulb is suitable for all diurnal tropical species except snakes.

Repti Glo 10.0

This bulb is suitable for all diurnal desert species except snakes.

Habitat Kit Cameroon 2010

PT2658

45 x 45 x 60 cm

18" x 18" x 24"

PT2658 Habitat Kit Cameroon 2010
Cameroon Rainforest starter Kit
Exo Terra Glass Terrarium - Water Dish Medium - Hygrometer - Thermometer - Cameroon Background - Standing Plant Spider Orchid - Jungle Vine Small and Large - Jungle Plant Amapallo - Jungle Fern Large - Plantation Soil - Compact Top - Terrarium Canopy - Exo Terra Catalogue - Booklet - Expedition Poster

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Burmese Pythons

BURMESE PYTHONS (Albino Burmese Python shown in pic)

Burmese Pythons are light-colored snakes with many brown blotches bordered in black down the back. The perceived attractiveness of their skin pattern contributes to their popularity with both reptile keepers and the leather industry. The pattern is similar in color, but different in actual pattern to the African Rock Python (Python sebae), sometimes resulting in confusion of the two species outside of their natural habitats.

In the wild, Burmese pythons grow to 3.7 meters (12 ft) on average,while specimens of more than 4.5 meters (15 ft) are uncommon.Individuals over 5 meters (16 ft) – like a specimen form Cooch Behar with 5.8 meters (19 ft) and 91 kilograms (201 lb)are very rare.There are reports of snakes more than 6 meters (20 ft) long, but those are often result of confusion between Burmese Pythons and Reticulated Pythons, stretched skins, or simple exaggeration. There are also dwarf forms on Java, Bali and Sulawesi. At Bali they reach an average length of 2 meters (6.6 ft) and on Sulawesi they achieve a maximum of 2.5 meters (8.2 ft).

Geographic Range and Habitat

The Burmese Python is found throughout Southern- and Southeast Asia including Eastern India, Nepal, Western Bhutan, Southeast Bangladesh, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Northern continental Malaysia, Southern China and in Indonesia on Java, Southern Sulawesi, Bali and Sumbawa.This python is an excellent swimmer and needs a permanent source of water. It can be found in grasslands, marshes, swamps, rocky foothills, woodlands, river valleys, and jungles with open clearings. They are good climbers and have prehensile tails.
Burmese Pythons as an invasive species

The captive breeding of Burmese Pythons in the Americas has led to some rather serious problems. People who grow tired of their pythons, or whose pythons have grown too large to be kept in their houses, have been known to release their pets into the wild rather than have them re-homed. This has been particularly problematic in Florida, where a large number of pythons have made their way to the Everglades.They have thrived there, begun to reproduce prolifically, and become an invasive species. Over 230 (National Geographic - October 28, 2005) have been captured in the Everglades where they are competing with alligators as the dominant predator. In recent years this competition has resulted in what officials describe as a draw.Since they have been known to eat endangered birds and alligators, these snakes present a new danger to an already fragile ecosystem. In February 2008, USGS scientists published a projected range map for the US, based on average climate data of the snake's home range and Global warming projections, which predicted that these snakes could eventually migrate to and flourish in as much as a third of the continental United States by the end of the 21st century. However, a subsequent study produced a map incorporating both climatic extremes and averages, which showed the Burmese python's range to be limited to Southern Florida.

Behaviour

Burmese Pythons are mainly nocturnal rain forest dwellers.When younger they are equally at home on the ground and in trees, but as they gain girth they tend to restrict most of their movements to the ground. They are also excellent swimmers, being able to stay submerged for up to half an hour. Burmese Pythons spend the majority of their time hidden in the underbrush. In the northern parts of its range it may brumate for some months during the cold season in a hollow tree, a hole in the riverbank or under rocks. Brumation is biologically distinct from hibernation. While the behavior has similar benefits, specifically to endure the winter without moving, it also involves preparation of both male and female reproductive organs for the upcoming breeding season.

Burmese Pythons breed in the early spring, with females laying clutches which average 12–36 eggs in March or April. She will remain with the eggs until they hatch, wrapping around them and twitching her muscles in such a way as to raise the ambient temperature around the eggs by several degrees. Once the hatch-lings use their egg tooth to cut their way out of their eggs, there is no further maternal care. The newly hatched will often remain inside their egg until they are ready to complete their first shedding of skin, after which they hunt for their first meal.

Diet

Like all snakes, Burmese Pythons are carnivorous. Their diet consists primarily of appropriately sized birds and mammals. The snake uses its sharp rearward-pointing teeth to seize its prey, then wraps its body around the prey at the same time contracting its muscles, killing the prey by constriction. They are often found near human habitations due to the presence of rats, mice and other vermin as a food source. However, their equal affinity for domesticated birds and mammals means that they are often treated as a pest. In captivity their diet consists primarily of commercially available, appropriately sized rats, and moving up to larger items such as rabbits and poultry as they grow. Exceptionally large pythons may even require larger food items such as pigs or goats, and are known to have attacked alligators in Florida, where it is an invasive species.

Digestion

The digestive response of Burmese Pythons to such large prey has made them a model species for digestive physiology. A fasting python will have a reduced stomach volume and acidity, reduced intestinal mass and a 'normal' heart volume. After ingesting prey, the entire digestive system undergoes a massive remodeling, with rapid hypertrophy of the intestines, production of stomach acid, and a 40% increase in mass of the ventricles of the heart in order to fuel the digestive process.

Conservation

Wild populations are considered to be "threatened" and are listed on Appendix II of CITES. All the giant pythons (including the Indian Python, the African Rock Python, and the Reticulated Python) have historically been slaughtered to supply the world leather market, as well as for folk medicines, and captured for the pet trade. Some are also killed for food, particularly in China.

In Hong Kong, it is a protected species under Wild Animals Protection Ordinance Cap 170.

In Captivity

Burmese Pythons are often sold as pets, and are made popular by their attractive color and apparently easy-going nature. However, these animals have a rapid growth rate, and will often exceed 2.1 meters (7 feet) in length in a year if cared for and fed properly. By age 4, they will have reached their adult size, though they continue growing very slowly throughout their lives, which may exceed 20 years.

While this species has a reputation for docility, they are very powerful animals, capable of inflicting severe bites or even killing a keeper by constriction. They also consume large amounts of food, and due to their size, require large, often custom-built, secure enclosures, which can be very expensive. As a result some are released to the wild by pet owners.

A secondary problem with feeding Burmese Pythons is that many owners believe if a snake acts hungry, that it should be fed. As Burmese Pythons are opportunistic feeders, they will eat almost any time food is offered, and often act hungry even when they have recently eaten. This often leads to overfeeding, and obesity related problems are common in captive Burmese Pythons.

Burmese Handling

Although pythons are typically afraid of people, due to their high stature (especially given that snakes are usually low to the ground), and will generally avoid people, special care is still required when handling them. A three meters long Burmese Python can easily kill a child and a five meters long (around 16.5 feet) Burmese Python is certainly capable of overpowering and killing a fully grown adult, so it is not advisable to handle such a large snake alone. If the snake does wrap around an individual, others should be present to unwind the snake, starting at the tail. Many reptile zoos demonstrate proper snake handling technique. Usually the demonstrator handles the head, while non-professionals can handle the rest of the snake's body. Snakes should be supported firmly but gently.

Variations

The Burmese Python is frequently captive bred for color, pattern, and more recently size. The albino form of the Burmese Python is especially popular and is the most widely available morph. They are white with patterns in butterscotch yellow and burnt orange. There are also "Labyrinth" specimens, which have maze like patterns, khaki colored "Green" Burmese Pythons, and "Granite" Burmese Pythons, which have many small angular spots. Breeders have recently begun working with an island lineage of Burmese Pythons. Early reports indicate that these "Dwarf" Burmese have a slightly different coloring and pattern than their mainland relatives and do not grow much over 2.1 meters (7 ft) long. The "Dwarf" Burmese were first captively reproduced by Beau Lewis of Arizona, USA. One of the most sought-after of these variations is the leucistic Burmese. This particular variety is very rare, and has only recently (2008/2009) been reproduced in captivity as the super form of the co-dominant hypomelanistic trait. This snake is entirely bright white with no pattern and black eyes, thus precluding it from being a true albino. The first Caramel Burmese Python was successfully hatched out on May 15, 2008 by Mark Andrews and Jason Hormann of Kansas City, KS. This snake has caramel colored pattern with milk chocolate eyes.

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