How to Create, Monitor, and Control Proper Humidity Levels for Your Herp

Humidity requirements for pet herps vary over a wide range. At one end of the spectrum, species such as green iguanas, geckos, chameleons, and water dragons need moist, tropical rainforest conditions. At the other end, species like the desert spiny lizard and the crevice spiny lizard require arid conditions. Whichever humidity level your pet requires in his enclosure, it must be monitored and maintained continuously. If the humidity would drop too low, your herp may not shed his skin correctly, and develop other health problems, such as egg binding in females. If humidity is too high, your pet could suffer severe fungal infections, or even pneumonia.

Research and observe

Temperature and humidity conditions in your terrarium require ongoing observation and precise adjustment when needed. Before setting up your pet's microclimate, research and learn everything you can about the needs of your particular pet. So specific are the needs of various species, that keeping different species together in the same enclosure is strongly discouraged. Also, be sure to take into account your local climate, and the type of climate control operating in your home. Humidity needs may change depending upon the status of your pet. For instance, during shedding, higher humidity levels are often helpful.

Moisture variables

The amount of moisture in the air of the enclosure or aquarium is controlled by three variables:

1. Ventilation
2. Temperature
3. Introduction of water into the atmosphere

Ventilation

Full enclosures with small side vents conserve heat and humidity. These are best for tropical and other species with high humidity requirements. Glass and plexiglass aquariums with wire mesh tops allow heat and humidity to more readily escape. These are best for desert and other species with low humidity requirements. If you need to maintain high humidity levels, avoid enclosures made of wood or pressboard which may rot or swell when moist. Regardless of type of enclosure, adequate ventilation and regular cleaning are necessary to control the rapid growth of bacteria and mold. With any type of enclosure always make sure all electrical connections are waterproof.

Temperature

In most cases, an ideal herp environment will be maintained through the use of multiple heat sources. For instance, an under-the-cage heat mat will keep the base temperature of the enclosure at the proper level, while a basking light or ceramic heater will provide a warmer spot. Most herps do best when they have a temperature gradient within the enclosure so they can move to a warmer or cooler spot, as desired. To monitor the temperature, at least two thermometers should be used. One should be placed near the floor of the cage where it is coolest, and one near the basking area, where it is the warmest. The thermometers should be checked at least once daily to be sure the heat sources are working properly.

The warmer the temperature, the faster the water sources in the enclosure will evaporate. Since most enclosures will be warmer than room temperature, the water in the cage will evaporate faster than water outside of the cage. This means water bowls, pools, damp moss, and other water sources need to be checked frequently and water added as needed.

Introduction of water

Just as thermometers are necessary to monitor temperature, a hygrometer is necessary to monitor the humidity and be sure your pet's environment is optimal. If the humidity is too low, there are many ways to add moisture to the environment. Choose one or more of the following to satisfy your herp's moisture requirements:

• Pools: Some herps, especially amphibians and some snakes, need a large pool of water in which to submerge themselves. The water in the pool should be clean and changed regularly.

• Dishes: Pet-safe, low profile water dishes provide water to drink and help raise humidity levels.

• Foggers: Foggers add moisture and ambience by simulating low clouds, fog, and dew. They are particularly useful for dew-lapping reptiles.

• Humidifiers: There are several types of humidifiers/air exchangers that constantly supply fresh, humid air to terrariums. If there are multiple herp enclosures in a room, some owners prefer to use a room humidifier.

• Misters: Programmable misters deliver a quick mist every hour, a long mist every 12 hours, or many choices in between.

• Waterfalls: Waterfall kits are available, which not only add humidity, but enhance the appearance of the terrarium.

• Drip systems: By allowing water to constantly drip into a pool at the bottom of the cage, humidity levels can be increased. A drip system could consists of a container of water placed above the cage, with holes or plastic tubing leading from it which drips water onto the plants. (Ask your veterinarian for a used intravenous (IV) drip set, that you can fill with water.)

• In-cage rain system: An in-cage rain system can be made from PVC tubing that has small holes drilled into it. The tubing can be connected to a water supply using a valve to control water flow. The tubing is placed over the cage, and the water drips into the cage. A collection system under the cage will need to be provided, such as large plastic trays or buckets.

• Humidity boxes: For some herps who need high humidity, a humidity box can be used to add humidity to a specific area of the enclosure. To make such a box, cut an entrance in any small plastic box and line it with damp sphagnum moss. The moss needs to be changed regularly to prevent mold from developing. Humidity boxes are especially useful when the herp is shedding or in winter when room humidity levels can become very low.

• Spray bottle: A low-tech way of adding humidity is simply to spray the enclosure with water at intervals. To avoid creating problems like pneumonia and mouth rot, do not overdo it.

• Live plants: Depending upon the species or herp, some do well with live plants in their enclosures. This is an attractive way to add humidity as well as basking and hiding areas. Be sure to use nontoxic plants.

Too much moisture can be detrimental. Moisture on the animal will result in lowering of his body temperature as it evaporates. In general, there should be a drier area of the cage where the herp can go to to help regulate his body temperature. If mildew becomes a problem, decrease the number of hours the humidifiers, foggers, etc. are running. To kill the fungus, the enclosure can be cleaned with a mild bleach solution, rinsed thoroughly, and allowed to dry. Do not use the bleach solution in the same room as the herp, and remember to take safety precautions. For more information on cleaning cages, click here.

Summary

The humidity requirements of herps vary. Learn what is optimal for your herp and choose his enclosure and accessories based on his needs. Daily monitor the temperature and humidity and adjust his habitat as necessary to maintain proper levels. If the humidity needs to be higher, there are multiple ways to add moisture to his environment.

Giant desert hairy scorpion

source: Wikipedia

Desert Hairy Scorpion
Scientific classification
Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Arthropoda Subphylum: Chelicerata Class: Arachnida Order: Scorpiones Family: Caraboctonidae Genus: Hadrurus Species: H. arizonensis
Binomial name
Hadrurus arizonensis (Ewing, 1928)

The giant desert hairy scorpion (Hadrurus arizonensis) is the largest scorpion inhabiting the South-West of North America and one of the 8–9 species of Hadrurus in the US, attaining a length of 14–15 cm (5.6–6 inches). Its large size allows it to feed readily on other scorpions and a variety of other prey, including lizards and snakes. This species is usually yellow with a dark top and has lobster-like pincers. It gets its common name from the brown hairs that cover its body, these hairs help it to detect vibration in the soil.

Habitat

The Arizona Desert Hairy Scorpion (Hadrurus arizonensis), one of the largest species in North America, is distributed throughout the Sonoran and Mojave deserts. In Mexico, the species' range flanks the Sea of Cortez in Sonora and Baja California Norte. In the United States, it is found in the western two thirds of Arizona, the Colorado and Mojave desert regions of southern California, southern Nevada, and extreme southwestern Utah. Arizona Desert Hairy Scorpions are a warm-desert species, specially adapted to hot and dry conditions. They are usually found in and around washes or low-elevation valleys where they dig elaborate burrows (up to 2.5 m deep) and emerge at night to forage for prey and mates.

Desert Hairy Scorpions are not especially venomous, but another Sonoran Desert species, the Arizona Bark Scorpion (Centruroides sculpteratus) can be dangerous to young, elderly, and those with compromised immune systems. Arizona Bark Scorpions are commonly encountered in rocky habitats but sometimes stray to sandy soils and are found alongside the Desert Hairy Scorpions.

Diet and behavior

It is a burrowing scorpion, but is commonly found under rocks containing moisture. Its diet consists of large insects, spiders, and small vertebrates. This is an aggressive and active scorpion, which, as with all scorpions, is nocturnal. Like all scorpions, the giant desert hairy scorpion gives birth to live young, which remain on the mother's back for a week or more before leaving

Toxicity

Although this scorpion is big, its venom is not very potent, and its sting is commonly perceived to be about as painful as a honeybee's sting, this scorpion has an LD50 value of 168 mg/kg. However, an allergic reaction to its venom can be fatal; symptoms can include: difficulty breathing, excessive swelling, and prolonged pain.

QUICK GUIDE Care Range	Easy Deserts of southwest United States and northern Mexico.
Type	Burrowing.
Diet	Babies eat pinhead crickets, or other small insects. Adults eat crickets, and other large insects.
Full Grown Size	4 to 6 inches.
Growth	Slow speed.
Temperature	75 to 85° F.
Humidity	55 to 65%.
Temperament	Aggressive and active.
Housing	Babies can live in a clear plastic deli-container with air holes. Adults can live in a 2.5 to 5-gallon tank. Floor space is more important than height.
Substrate	3 to 4 inches of sand.
Decor	No decorations are really needed, but you can add a log, or driftwood.
Other Names	Arizona Hairy Scorpion, and Giant Desert Hairy Scorpion.

Facts about turtles and tortoises

Some interesting facts about turtles and tortoises:

• Turtles have been on the earth for more than 200 million years. They evolved before mammals, birds, crocodiles, snakes, and even lizards.

• The earliest turtles had teeth and could not retract their heads, but other than this, modern turtles are very similar to their original ancestors.

• Several species of turtles can live to be over a hundred years of age including the American Box Turtle.

• One documented case of longevity involves an adult Indian Ocean Giant Tortoise that when captured as an adult was estimated to be fifty years old. It then lived another 152 years in captivity.

• Turtles live on every continent except Antarctica.

• Turtles will live in almost any climate warm enough to allow them to complete their breeding cycle.

• While most turtles do not tolerate the cold well, the Blanding's turtle has been observed swimming under the ice in the Great Lakes region.

• Turtles range in size from the 4-inch Bog Turtle to the 1500-pound Leathery Turtle.

• North America contains a large variety of turtle species, but Europe contains only two species of turtle and three species of tortoise.

• The top domed part of a turtle's shell is called the carapace and the bottom underlying part is called the plastron.

• The shell of a turtle is made up of 60 different bones all connected together.

• The bony portion of the shell is covered with plates (scutes) that are derivatives of skin and offer additional strength and protection.

• Most land tortoises have high domed carapaces that offer protection from the snapping jaws of terrestrial predators. Aquatic turtles tend to have flatter more aerodynamically shaped shells. An exception to the dome-shaped tortoise shell is the Pancake Tortoise of East Africa that will wedge itself between narrow rocks when threatened and then inflates itself with air making extraction nearly impossible.

• Most turtle species have five toes on each limb with a few exceptions including the American Box Turtle of the Carolina species that only has four toes, and in some cases, only three.

• Turtles have good eyesight and an excellent sense of smell. Hearing and sense of touch are both good and even the shell contains nerve endings.

• Some aquatic turtles can absorb oxygen through the skin on their neck and cloacal areas allowing them to remain submerged underwater for extended periods of time and enabling them to hibernate underwater.

• Turtles are one of the oldest and most primitive groups of reptiles and have outlived many other species. One can only wonder if their unique shell is responsible for their success.

For more great turtle facts click here

Shell Rot in Turtles & Tortoises

Shell Rot in Turtles & Tortoises

Fungal and bacterial organisms have been associated with the condition known as shell rot. Small scratches or abrasions provide entry for these organisms. As they take hold in the living bone beneath the keratinous covering of the shell, they begin to erode the bone and may penetrate into the body cavity, causing serious, even fatal, systemic infections.

Initial home care for non-penetrative lesions
If the area of infection has not yet eaten through the shell, you can try initially to treat it at home while at the same time assessing the care setup to figure out why the defect occurred to begin with that enabled the fungal or bacterial organisms to get started.

The infected area should be swabbed with a dilute povidone-iodine solution. The areas of infection can then be gently scraped away using a blunt edge such as a disinfected table knife. The scraped areas are then swabbed with povidone-iodine solution or ointment.

Since you don't know if the infection is bacterial or fungal, first try a topical antibiotic ointment, such as a triple antibiotic ointment, which contains three different broad-spectrum antibiotics. Dab a bit on the infected. If the chelonian is an aquatic turtle, keep the turtle out of the water for at least 10 minutes to give the medication time to penetrate. If there is no observable improvement within a couple of days, try an antifungal cream. There are several available, each with a different active anti-fungal ingredient. Try one, keeping aquatic turtles out of the water for at least 10 minutes to give the drug time to penetrate. If there is no improvement after a couple of days, take the chelonian to your reptile vet. These infections are not something to mess around with for very long at home, given the potentially lethal nature of systemic infections.

How do infections get started?
When fungal and bacterial shell infections occur, they are usually found in aquatic turtles. Pits of varying size and depths have also been found in terrestrial chelonians, typically the result of the animal being preyed upon by invertebrates while in hibernation. When the shell is scratched or punctured, even if it does not penetrate all the way through the shell, it is like getting a scratch or puncture wound on our skin: a defect is formed in which bacteria or fungi can collect and grow, causing infection. In the wild - and captivity - this can occur by rubbing up against a too-rough surface, falling on or against a sharp object, or being preyed upon (or being used as a chew toy).

In the case of aquatic and semi-aquatic turtles, the situation is complicated by the water quality. Depending on the situation, dirty water can cause the infection, or can exacerbate one. Keeping the water clean is essential in helping to prevent health problems and to aid - or at least not hamper - recovery when illness and shell infections occur. When your chelonian has an infection, you also need to clean and disinfect the tank and keep the water clean by use of a regularly serviced filtration system and frequent water changes.

When you need a vet
The bottom line is your chelonian's health. What may look to you like a minor infection may be the tip of a much more serious problem. A shell or skin infection may be a primary problem, or may be secondary to an underlying, more serious, health problem. If there is a change in the chelonian's daily routine and behavior, that is yet another sign that something more than a minor superficial infection is happening.

So, don't try treating a non-penetrative lesion on your own for more than a week. If you can't tell if the lesion penetrates through the shell, or the lesions grow or new ones appear, don't wait even that long: get your turtle or tortoise to your reptile vet. If there has been penetration into the body cavity, the cavity will need to be flushed out, checked for possible parasites and infection, and the veterinarian may determine that a course of systemic antibiotics is indicated. Deep erosions may need to be sealed with patches similar to those used to repair broken shells after the underlying tissues have been cleaned and the chelonian treated systemically.

Talk with your vet about how to keep your aquatic turtle during its recovery period. You may need to keep the turtle dry and out of the water as much as possible, allowed in daily to feed, drink and defecate only.

White’s Tree Frogs

Care Sheet

White’s Tree Frogs make excellent pets. They are a great choice for beginners who have never owned a frog as they are easy to care for and not nearly as delicate as other types of frogs. They are cute, friendly, and a little different than most types of pets. White’s tree frog owners should focus on providing a calm, clean habitat. Stress can be harmful to white’s tree frogs. Try to keep your frog’s terrarium in a relatively quiet room.

One of the cool things about white’s tree frogs is that they don’t really mind humans too much and can be handled without freaking out. It is best to not handle them too much though. Also, don’t forget, they do like to jump. And will. Before handling your frog, rinse your hands thoroughly to avoid spreading germs to your frog. Don’t use soap prior to handling your white’s tree frog though, as soap can be harmful to its skin. After handling your frog, wash your hands thoroughly with soap. The toxins in a white’s tree frog’s skin can be harmful to humans.

Habitat

The best way to keep your white’s tree frog healthy is to provide the right habitat and feed it properly. A poorly designed environment can cause unnecessary stress, while a filthy habitat can increase the risk of a frog ailment. To avoid this, clean your frog’s cage about once a month and take the time to pick up its frog feces when you see them.

Your frog should have plenty of stuff to crawl on and hide behind. Remember, your frog’s ancestors lived in the jungle.

Water

The water in your frog’s dish should be changed daily if possible. Clean water is key for your white’s tree frog. You will either want to use a jug of Ozarka (or generic brand) spring or drinking water – not distilled. If you would rather use tap water, keep it in a gallon jug and add about eight drops of water conditioner to treat the water for your frog. It will cost you about $6 and last you a very long time.

As with other types of tree frogs, white’s tree frogs also need the right level of humidity. Keep a spray bottle nearby and mist the inside of your pet frog’s cage frequently (again, daily if possible).

Food

As far as food, white’s tree frogs eat crickets, mealworms, and sometimes pinkie mice. Beware of overfeeding as your dumpy tree frog will get quite fat and be more prone to illness. If the flap of skin over your tree frog’s eyes starts to fold over the eyes, it is time to cut back on the crickets a bit.

Adding Frogs to Your Terrarium

The question has been asked many times: Can I keep my white’s tree frogs in a terrarium with other types of frogs? The simple answer is no. Frog breeds carry different levels of toxicity in their skin, meaning that sharing a common water bowl could kill either frog. There is one type of frog with a comparable level of toxicity, but if you want multiple frogs your safest bet is to add additional dumpy tree frogs.

Be careful adding a very small white’s tree frog with an adult, as your adult may mistake the smaller frog for dinner. Add only frogs of the same breed and similar size and you should be fine.

for more information head on over to our forum, click here

Reptile Safety

Household Hazards for Reptiles & Amphibians

Some owners of herps allow their pets, especially iguanas, to roam through the house, or at least a few rooms. Every herp owner has the fear that their pet may escape from his cage and become lost in the home. Whether intentional or accidental, a herp loose in the house faces many hazards.

The following items may cause injury or be dangerous to some degree if ingested, inhaled, or placed in contact with your herp. Some can cause death almost instantly. Others may cause only a mild reaction, but it is best to remove them from any areas where they would be in contact with your pet. This is not a complete list, so if you are in any doubt about something that your reptile has eaten or been in contact with, please contact your veterinarian or the National Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435. (They charge $50.00 per case.)

Windows and Doors

• Open doors and windows are invitations for your herp to escape to the outside.
• Do not leave doors to the outside open.
• Keep windows closed unless there is a strong screen securely installed. Check the screens regularly for any holes or loose wire that could injure your herp or allow escape.
• Curtains and drapery can pose hazards, especially to lizards, if toenails become stuck in the fabric or the animal becomes entangled in the cord. Keep your pet's nails clipped to the appropriate length.

Temperature Extremes

Extreme heat and cold can be dangerous for your herp.

• Avoid placing your herp's cage in any drafty area; keep him well away from fans, open windows, and heat registers. Also, do not place him in a cold room, or area that may be in full sun with no shade.
• Regularly check your thermostat and cage temperature. Have back-up plans in place in case of a power outage.

Suffocation or Crushing

Many herps like to hide under things, or find a small "hole" into which they can retreat. With their small size, they can easily go unnoticed and be trapped or injured by moving parts. To prevent these occurrences:

• Always look where you walk. Many herps have been injured or even killed from being stepped on.
• When you close a door or cupboard, make sure your herp is not sitting on top of it or on his way through the opening.
• Do not allow your herp in rooms where computer printers, electrical tools, vacuum cleaners, or other mechanical devices with moving parts are being used.
• Use caution when using fold-out beds or recliners since herps may get underneath them and into the mechanism.
• Before moving or laying anything on the bed covers, laundry basket, or other areas where there are multiple layers of fabric, be sure your herp has not gotten between the layers.
• Cover all air ducts to prevent a herp from exploring and becoming lost in the maze.

Child – Herp Interactions

A herp could be hurt, or hurt a child if he is improperly handled. To keep everyone safe:

• Take into account the age of children, their maturity, and experience with handling herps and other pets when deciding if they may be left alone with a herp. Also, take into account the temperament and size of the herp.
• Establish household rules regarding the handling of the herp, including what supervision is necessary.
• Show children the correct way to handle a herp and praise them when they do it properly.
• Because of the risk of Salmonella, do not allow children under 5 years of age to handle a herp. Advise everyone who handles a herp or anything in the herp cage to wash their hands well, before and afterward.

Interactions With Other Pets

Extreme care should be taken when introducing your herp to other pets. It is natural instinct for wild canines and felines to prey on small herps. Sometimes the reverse is true, and a large herp can actually be more dangerous. Animal bites can cause severe injuries and be fatal. If your herp is bitten, always seek veterinary attention.

• Never leave a loose herp unattended in a room with another pet, even if they appear to get along well together. It is always better to be safe than sorry.
• Place herp cages where they cannot be tipped over by inquisitive or predatory behaviors of other pets.
• Cover all aquariums to prevent your herp from accidental drowning or drinking the water that may contain infectious organisms or checmicals used to threat the water.
• Keep cat litter boxes out of the reach of herps. Ingestion could result in obstructions of the digestive tract.
• Keep water dishes out of the reach of herps, since some smaller reptiles can drown in even a small amount of water.
• Keep all flea and tick sprays and pet medications and supplements — especially those that are flavored — out of the reach of herps.

Kitchen Hazards

The kitchen contains an almost endless number of hazards including:

• Burns from hot burners, open ovens, toasters, coffee pots, tea kettles, boiling water, or hot cooking oil.
• Drowning in a sink or even a small bowl of water.
• Injuries or entrapment in open appliances, such as dishwashers, freezers, and refrigerators.
• Cuts from sharp objects, such as knives.
• Toxic foods including alcohol, salt, and coffee, tea, colas, and other caffeinated beverages.

The kitchen should be off limits to all herps not only for their safety, but also because of the risk of Salmonella contaminating food or eating utensils.

Bathroom Hazards

Bathrooms can be almost as hazardous as kitchens, and extreme care should be taken if a herp is allowed in this room of the house.

• Prevent access to water in sinks, bathtubs, toilet bowls, and jacuzzis, since drowning could easily occur.
• Keep all medications, including vitamins and supplements, out of the reach of children and pets.
• Keep other potentially poisonous items, such as shaving cream and lotion, hair dyes and permanent solutions, and cleaning supplies, including toilet bowl cleaner safely stored.

Again, reduce the risk of Salmonella by not allowing your herp access to the bathroom.

Laundry Room Hazards

The laundry room is another area of the house that poses multiple threats to herps.

• Use care when placing or removing laundry from baskets — your herp may have found the basket to be a good sleeping place.
• Keep the doors to the washer and dryer closed, and watch very closely as you load and unload the laundry. Herps have accidentally been trapped and killed in these appliances.
• Keep detergents, fabric dyes and softeners, bleach, and other potentially toxic laundry supplies safely stored out of the reach of children and pets.

Heat Sources

Burns are a common injury in pet herps and can occur from a number of sources other than kitchen appliances.

• Never allow your herp in a room where there is an open flame from candles, fondue pots, heated potpourri pots, or other sources.
• Keep your herp caged when using a space heater or fireplace. Even if glass fireplace doors would prevent access to the fire, the doors themselves can be very hot. Also, always keep the damper and doors to the fireplace closed when it is not in use.
• Radiators can also pose a risk of burns.
• Light bulbs, especially halogen ones, can become quite hot, and remain hot even after being turned off. Be sure they are cool before allowing your herp access.
• Use care when using heating pads. One snake actually ingested a heating pad!

Smoke and Fumes

Amphibians, especially, are very sensitive to airborne toxins, since their skin is very permeable. The following should all be considered dangerous around herps:

• Smoke from any source is hazardous. Secondhand smoke from cigars and cigarettes can cause chronic eye, skin, and respiratory disease. Install smoke and carbon monoxide alarms. Tobacco is also toxic, so remove any whole or smoked cigars or cigarettes before allowing your herp access to a room. Marijuana is also toxic.
• Gasoline, kerosene, lighter fluid, and other petroleum products.
• Paint, wood stains and preservatives, mineral spirits, turpentine, paint remover, paint thinner, and other solvents.
• Cleaning supplies and disinfectants including bleach, phenols, ammonia, pine oil, spot remover, window cleaning solution, floor and furnisher polish.
• Scented candles, potpourri, tea tree oils, essential oils, air fresheners.
• Perfumes, hairsprays, room deodorizers, deodorant, nail polish remover - anything with a propellant.
• Other items that can give off fumes such as glues, permanent markers, and mothballs.

Do not use the above items in the presence of herps, especially amphibians. If they are being used in larger areas of the house, it is best to remove the herp from the house temporarily.

Other Toxins or Hazards

In addition to those mentioned, there are many other potential toxins that are found in and around many homes. Since herps can absorb chemicals through their skin, always wash your hands well after having contact with any possible poison.

• Protect your herp from: Jewelry, button batteries, coins, fishing tackle, pins, and other small metallic items that can cause mouth injuries, damage, or obstruction of the digestive tract, or toxicity.
• Toxic houseplants.
• Poisonous heavy metals include zinc, lead, and arsenic, which are surprisingly common in a household.
• Zinc is present in galvanized metal such as nails, staples, and solder. It may also be present in zinc oxide skin preparations, such as Desitin and sunblock containing zinc oxide; calamine lotion; suppositories; shampoos; zinc undecylenate (Desenex); and fertilizers. Be sure to wash your hands after using these items and before handling your herp.
• Lead is present in lead-containing paint, linoleum, tile, batteries, plumbing materials, putty, lead foil, solder, and acid (soft) drinking water from lead pipes or improperly glazed ceramic water bowls.
• Arsenic is a highly poisonous metal used in insecticides, pesticides, rodenticides, weed killers, wood preservatives, some insulation, and some alloys.
• Other poisons, such as herbicides (weed killers), snail and slug bait, insecticides (flea and tick control products), pesticides (ant poison), and rodenticides (rat poison). Be careful with mouse traps, too.

Summary

It may seem like a daunting task to make your home herp safe, but it can be done. Remain on the lookout for potential hazards, regularly check each room of the house, and daily monitor your herp for any signs of illness. Being on the safe side will help your herp live a longer and healthier life with you.

Ball Python Breeding and Morphs

This video shows Ball Python morphs that can be obtained by selective breeding. Below is a basic Ball Python breeding sheet, from the people over at morphcapital.com

Ball Python - Basic Breeding Sheet

This article includes just basic principles of ball python breeding, these methods are not the only way to successfully breed ball pythons but they are what work for us.

Breeding Size
Generally, we like our male ball pythons to be at least 600 grams and our females to be at least 1400 grams before attempting to breed them. Female ball pythons reach sexual maturity between 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 years old; males can start producing sperm within the first year. I will say however it is not wise breed a female that is skinny or not in good health. The process of breeding to egg laying is toll taking physically and can cause serious harm or death to an unhealthy or underweight female.

Cycling
Early to mid October we stop feeding our breeder males and females, after about two weeks without food we start to drop the night time temps to an ambient temperature in the mid 70s, with a hot spot in the mid to upper 80s and adjust our lighting to a 14 hour night time cycle.

Introduction
After two weeks into the temperature/light cycle change, we begin to introduce our breeder males to the female enclosure, this varies from breeder to breeder but it works for us. We will remove the male after three days for a three day rest period regardless if copulation was observed.

Ovulation
We continue to pair our breeders up until we notice the female ovulate. In most cases the female would have gone into a pre-ovulation shed. Ovulation usually looks like a swollen snake that has just had a huge meal.

Pre-Lay Shed
After ovulation the female will go into a pre-lay shed.

Gravid Behavior
Gravid females will sometimes lay inverted and they can sometimes be seen wrapping around their water dish.

Egg Laying
Approximately 27-35 days after the pre-lay shed, the female will lay her eggs. Our females have always laid their eggs in the early morning hours. Egg laying can take a few hours to complete; we try to keep all disturbances to a minimum during egg laying. Once the eggs are laid, we then remove the female, then remove the eggs. We place the eggs into a plastic container to artificially incubate. You can use a flashlight to "candle" an egg to look for veins inside the egg. An egg without veins is infertile and will probably turn yellow and rot. Once the eggs are in the incubator, we thoroughly wash the female and her tub removing the egg scent and place the female back into the rack. We try and give the female two days of recovery time before offering food.

Incubation
We incubate our eggs between 87-89 degrees at about 80%-90% humidity. We prefer the no substrate method to incubate our eggs. During the last couple weeks of incubation the eggs will dimple and cave in.

Glossary Of Common Reptile Terms

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A post a little different than the norm, we give you a glossary of common terms used in the reptile industry to help our readers better understand the articles posted.

• Albino – Genetic mutation that causes the lack color pigment usually seen with red eyes
• Aquatic – Spending most of the time in fresh water
• Basking Spot – Area of the enclosure kept warmer with the use of a heating element to allow the animal to thermo-regulate
• Bridge – Area of the shell on turtles and tortoises that connects the carapace and plastron
• Brumation – Period of cooling down a reptile to simulate natural seasons, helps to stimulate breeding
• C. B. – Abbreviation for Captive Bred
• Captive Bred – Animal bred in captivity and not caught from the wild, generally healthier and better adjusted to live in captivity, abbreviated C. B.
• Carapace – Dorsal portion of the shell on a turtle or tortoise
• Carnivore – Feeding exclusively on meat
• Cold Blooded – Body temperature and metabolism is controlled by the external temperature, see also Exothermic
• Crepuscular – Active primarily during dawn and dusk hours of the day
• Dechlorinate – To remove the chlorine from ordinary tap water by letting it sit out for 24-hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate naturally or by using commercially available products
• Diurnal – Active primarily during the day
• Dorsal – Referring to the back or top of an animal, portion with the backbone, opposite side of ventral
• Endothermic – Body temperature and metabolism controlled internally and not dependent upon the external temperature, see also warm blooded
• Exothermic – Body temperature and metabolism is controlled by the external temperature, see also Cold Blooded
• Gut Loading – Process of feeding prey items good quality food to ensure proper nutrition for the animal being fed the prey items
• Heat Rock – Commercially available product that consists of a heating element surrounded by rock; notoriously unreliable and often causes burns to the animals it is used with; see also Hot Rock
• Herbivore – Feeding exclusively on plant material
• Herpetoculture – The science of keeping herpetofauna in captivity
• Herpetofauna – Referring to both reptiles and amphibians
• Herpetology – Study of reptiles and amphibians
• Herptile – Inaccurate and incorrect slang term for reptiles and amphibians, see herpetofauna
• Hibernation – Often used inaccurately with regards to herpetofauna, see Brumation
• Hopper – Juvenile mouse that is just starting to move around
• Hot Rock – Commercially available product that consists of a heating element surrounded by rock; notoriously unreliable and often causes burns to the animals it is used with; see also Heat Rock
• Insectivore – Specialized carnivore that feeds exclusively on insects
• ISIS – International Species Information System, tracks taxonomic and breeding information of all species, used extensively in zoos and aquariums
• Leucistic – Genetic mutation that causes the lack of dark colored pigment to be present, usually seen with blue eyes
• Marine – Spending time mostly in salt water (i.e. ocean) surroundings
• Melonistic – Genetic mutation that cause more dark pigment than normal to be present
• Nocturnal – Active primarily during night
• Omnivore – Feeding on both meat and plant material
• Photoperiod – Period of light and dark to simulate the natural day and night cycle, important for the health and well being of animals in captivity
• Pinhead – Small sized crickets
• Pinky – Baby new born mouse, is hairless and pink in color
• Plastron – Ventral portion of the shell on turtles and tortoises
• Salmonella – Bacteria that causes Salmonellosis, commonly found in poorly prepared poultry and occasionally found on herpetofauna (usually thought of with turtles)
• Salmonellosis – Bacterial infection caused by Salmonella that causes diarrhea, fever, and abdominal cramps for 4 to 7 days
• Semi-Aquatic – Spending time on both land and fresh water
• Substrate – The material used as a floor or bedding for your animal
• Taxonomy – The organization of all organisms into categories to better describe them
• Temperature Gradient – Temperature range provided for herpetofauna to thermoregulate
• Terrestrial – Spending time primarily on the land only
• Thermocouple – Used to measure temperatures accurately, especially one consisting of two dissimilar metals
• Thermoregulate – Process in which the animal will move to warmer or cooler places to regulate its body temperature and metabolism
• UV – Ultraviolet light, usually not visible to the naked eye and described as three different types
• UVA – Visible to the naked eye, responsible for inducing normal behavior such as feeding and mating; provides for mental well-being
• UVB – Not visible to the naked eye, gives humans sun tans, allows for synthesis of vitamin D3 which allows reptiles to process calcium to prevent bone disease
• UVC – Not visible to the naked eye, used in sterilizers and kills bacteria, extremely dangerous and can cause damage to DNA
• Ventral – Referring to the bottom or belly area of an animal, opposite of dorsal
• W. C. – Abbreviation for Wild Caught
• Warm Blooded – Body temperature and metabolism controlled internally and not dependent upon the external temperature, sell also endothermic
• Wild Caught – Caught or trapped in the wild, generally carriers of parasites and more prone to sickness due to stress of capture and shipping, abbreviated W. C.

Eastern Box Turtle

Box Turtle

Taxonomy
Order: Chelonia
Family: Emydidae
Genus/species: Terrapene carolina
Subspecies: Terrapene carolina bauri (Florida box turtle)
Terrapene carolina major (Gulf Coast box turtle)
Terrapene carolina triunguis (three-toed box turtle)
Terrapene carolina carolina (eastern box turtle)

There are six subspecies of box turtles. The four listed above are found in the United States; two subspecies are found in Mexico.

This fact sheet describes a general box turtle, unless otherwise mentioned.

Description
All T. carolina have a bilobed, hinged plastron that allows the box turtle to close its shell almost completely. They have a steep-margined, keeled, high-domed, rounded carapace with variable markings. Concentric growth furrows can be seen on the carapace, although in some older individuals they become very difficult to see. The upper jaw is slightly hooked. The toes are only slightly webbed.

Males are slightly larger on average than females, the posterior lobe of their plastron is concave, and the claws on their hind legs are short, thick, and curved. Males also have thicker and longer tails. Females' rear claws are longer, straighter, and more slender, and the posterior lobe of their plastron is flat or slightly convex. Males have red irises and females have yellowish-brown irises.

Environmental temperature determines activity rate. Preferred body temperature is between 84 and 100° F (37.8° C). In the heat of the summer, box turtles largely restrict their activity to mornings and after rain. When it gets too hot, they hide under decaying logs and leaves, crawl into mammal burrows, or into mud. When it is really hot, they go into shady pools and puddles to cool off. In the spring and fall, they may be out foraging during all daylight hours, and they sometimes bask in the sun to get warm. Box turtles are diurnal and scoop out a shallow indentation in which to spend the night.

In the northern regions, box turtles go into hibernation in October or November, but farther south they remain active later in the year. To hibernate, they burrow as far as two-feet deep into loose earth, mud, stream bottoms, old stump holes, or mammal burrows. They may return to the same place to hibernate in successive years and sometimes more than one turtle hibernates in the same hibernacula. They usually emerge from hibernation in April. They sometimes wake up and find a new hibernacula on warm days in the winter.

These turtles usually have a home range with a diameter of 750 feet (230 m) or less in which they normally stay. Occasionally, for unknown reasons, they journey out from their home range. Home ranges of different individuals overlap frequently, regardless of age or sex. The turtles are often found together and show no antagonism towards each other.

Distribution and Habitat
Exclusively North American, box turtles occupy the eastern United States ranging from southern Maine to Florida along the East Coast, and west to Michigan, Illinois, eastern Kansas, Oklahoma, and Texas. Due to their popularity as household pets, box turtles are sometimes found far outside their normal geographic range.

There are four subspecies of T. carolina in the U.S. Terrapene carolina bauri (Florida box turtle) lives in the peninsula of Florida. Terrapene carolina major (Gulf Coast box turtle) ranges from the panhandle of Florida westward along the gulf coast to eastern Texas.

Terrapene carolina triunguis (three-toed box turtle) lives in the Mississippi River Valley from northern Missouri southward across southeastern Kansas and eastern Oklahoma into south-central Texas, and southeastward across western Tennessee and Georgia to the coastal lowlands.

Terrapene carolina carolina (common box turtle), covering the largest area, lives from Michigan and Maine in the north, and ranges south to the boundaries of the other subspecies. Very little overlap occurs between the ranges of the subspecies of T. carolina, except for a region in Mississippi and Alabama where T. carolina triunguis and T. carolina carolina overlap.

Box turtles live in open woodlands, pastures, and marshy meadows. They are often found near streams and ponds.

Diet in the Wild
Omnivorous, these turtles eat snails, insects, berries, fungi, slugs, worms, roots, flowers, fish, frogs, salamanders, snakes, birds, and eggs indiscriminately. They have been observed eating carrion, feeding on dead ducks, amphibians, assorted small mammals, and even a dead cow. Their preference varies greatly by season but there is one definite trend. Young are primarily carnivorous while they grow during their first five to six years. Adults tend to be mostly herbivorous, but they eat no green leaves. Young often hunt in ponds and streams because the type of food they prefer is easier to catch there, but adults usually feed on land.

Captivity Diet
In captivity, they are fed salad, earthworms, and crickets; rarely mealworms.

Reproduction
There is some variation between the courtship rituals of the subspecies. The courtship of both T.c.carolina and T.c.major is divided into three phases: a circling, biting, shoving phase; a preliminary mounting phase; and a copulatory phase. T.c.triunguis and T.c. bauri both have somewhat different rituals, which may represent the ancestral method. Both triunguis and bauri males have added the behavior of pulsating their throats. T.c.triunguis does this in front of the female, and bauri males climb up on the females' carapace with all four feet and then pulsate. The actual copulation is the same in all subspecies, with the male standing somewhat upright, leaning the concave part of his plastron against the back of the female's carapace. It is in this balanced position that the male fertilizes the female with his penis. Males sometimes fall backwards after copulation, and if they can't right themselves they die of starvation.

The mating season begins in the spring and continues throughout summer to October. Males may mate with more than one female or the same female several times over a period of several years. A female may lay fertile eggs for up to four years after one successful mating. Nesting occurs from May through July. Nests are usually dug in sandy or loamy soil, using the hind legs. Then eggs are laid in this cavity and the nest is carefully covered up again. Females lay three to eight eggs, usually four or five, and they are elliptical with thin, white, flexible shells. The female lays several clutches each year. Incubation normally lasts three months, but this varies according to soil temperature and moisture.

Life Span
Box turtles may live more than 100 years.

Status
Box turtles are listed on CITES Appendix II. Collection for the pet trade and habitat destruction and fragmentation threaten the box turtle population.

Fun Facts
When frightened, box turtles retract their head, tail, and limbs into their shell and clamp it shut. They wait in this position until the perceived threat is gone. While juveniles have several predators, very few species can prey effectively on adults due to this defense technique.

Box turtles are most famous for their hinged shell, which allows them to retract almost completely into their bony armor to hide from danger. This shell has great regenerative powers. A case was reported in which the carapace of a badly burned box turtle underwent complete regeneration.

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Choosing an enclosure for your herp

Choosing an Enclosure for Your Herp:
Common Tank Sizes & Dimensions

What you put in your herp's enclosure is very important, but did you know that the size of that enclosure is just as important? A reptile terrarium that is too small or too big can cause stress and negatively affect normal sleeping, eating, and behavioral patterns. This article will help you to figure out how to measure aquariums and terrariums and what size your herp needs.

Standard Tank Measurements
Many reference books and articles will recommend a minimum enclosure size in gallons, but what does that translate to in actual measurements?

Aquarium Capacity (in gallons)=	Terrarium Size (L x W x H)	Aquarium Capacity (in gallons)=	Terrarium Size (L x W x H)
5 gallons	16" x 18" x 10"	30 gallons	36" x 12" x 16"
10 gallons	20" x 10" x 12"	55 gallons	48" x 13" x 20"
15 gallons	24" x 12" x 12"	75 gallons	48" x 18" x 20"
15 gallon High	24" x 10" x 18"	90 gallons	48" x 18" x 24"
20 gallon High	24" x 12" x 16"	125 gallons	72" x 18" x 22"
20 gallon Long	30" x 12" x 12"	150 gallons	72" x 18" x 28"
29 gallons	30" x 12" x 18"	180 gallons	72" x 24" x 24"

If you are trying to calculate gallon size from the measurements of the enclosure, multiply the height by the width by the length to get cubic inches. To determine the size in US gallons, divide that number by 231. For example, if you have a terrarium that is 36" x 12" x 16", multiplying these numbers will give you 6,912. Divide that by 231, and you can see that it is a 30 gallon aquarium.

How big an enclosure do I need?
When figuring out how big a terrarium you will need, you need to know how big your reptile is. Take into consideration both their current size and what their adult size will be. Some reptiles, such as Green Iguanas and Red-eared Sliders, may be small when you purchase them, but they will get quite large. If you purchase an enclosure that is only big enough to properly house them when they are young, you will have to upgrade later. The various types of reptiles are measured differently to determine minimum enclosure size.

Lizard enclosures are measured based on "snout-tail length," or STL. The minimum enclosure size for one lizard is as follows:

• Length: 2 to 3 times the lizard's STL
• Depth: 1 to 1-1/2 times the lizard's STL
• Height: 1 to 1-1/2 times the lizard's STL (terrestrial)
  1-1/2 to 2 times the lizard's STL (arboreal)

Snake enclosures are based on their total length. The minimum enclosure size is:

• Length: 3/4 of the snake's total length
• Depth: 1/3 of the snake's total length
• Height: 3/4 of the snake's total length (terrestrial)
  1 times the snake's total length, but no more than 6" to 8" (arboreal)

Chelonian (turtles and tortoises) enclosures are based on their carapace length (CL). The minimum enclosure size differs depending on what kind of a chelonian it is.

Aquatic/Semi-Aquatic Turtles:

• Length: 4 to 5 times the aquatic turtle's CL
• Depth: 2 to 3 times the aquatic turtle's CL
• Height: 1-1/2 to 2 times the aquatic turtle's CL plus an additional 8" to 12"

Terrestrial Turtles and Tortoises:

• Length: 5 times the terrestrial turtle or tortoise's CL
• Depth: 3 times the terrestrial turtle or tortoise's CL
• Height: 1-1/2 to 2 times the terrestrial turtle or tortoise's CL

The minimum enclosure size for amphibians varies widely depending on how big the amphibian is and how many you are housing together. Some are tree dwellers that need tall enclosures while others spend most of their time in the water and can live in longer, lower tanks. Generally amphibians, either singly or in groups, require a 15- to 20-gallon tank, but you will need to research your specific species to determine the exact minimum size requirements.

It's important to note that these are just general requirements. Herps that are more active will need a larger cage than the minimum size to allow them plenty of living room.

You should also consider what kind of setup you're going to use. The above measurements are for simple enclosures. If you plan on using a naturalistic terrarium setup, the enclosure will need to be larger. At least 30% to 40% of the floor space will need to be open. Likewise, if you house more than one lizard, snake, or chelonian, the enclosure will need to be larger, sometimes significantly.

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Savannah Monitor Quick Guide

Savannah Monitor Lizard

Land: Hailing from the Savannah grasslands of central Africa, generally found in Senegal, Northern Zaire, Ghana, Eritrea and Togo. Adult Size: The average length of the adult Savannah monitor lizard is between 3 to 5 feet in length. Appearance: It has a lot of small scales in the cranial region. The body varies from shades of gray to brown. This lizards head can turn in all directions and it has a blue snake like tongue. Although they both have yellow and brown rings on the tail, the males have shorter tails than the females. Diet: Its diet mainly consists of snails, beetles, millipedes, and other invertebrates in the wild. In captivity Vitamin dusted crickets, mice and small rats are the norm. Savannah monitors have a tendency to gain lots of weight so feeding them fatty foods like cat and dog food is discouraged. Ease of Care: Savannah Monitor lizards are very quiet and do not demand lots of attention. With proper care the Savannah monitor lizard can live up to 10 years. Unfortunately due to lack of proper care many Savannah monitors die within one year of captivity. Cleaning water dish and scrubbing tank often is heavily recommended. Habitat: Due to the large size of the Savannah monitor lizard, they require a large enclosure. Avoiding mesh screens is highly recommended as Savannah monitors have very sharp claws and can easily tear through them. Because they come from hot and dry environments, they like to be heat ranging from 85 to 90 degrees during the day and about 75 to 85 degrees at night. Drink: They drink lots of water and should have the water refreshed daily. A bowl large enough for the lizard to submerge most of its body is necessary. Sleeping Habits: Monitors are known to hibernate when their environments are not warm enough for them. Temperament: Savannah monitors are not likely tame. So time should be spent taming them or your experience with one could be very unpleasant. Savannah monitors are said to be highly intelligent and are known to spend a major part of each day trying to escape. Breeding: It is said to be very difficult to breed Savannah monitors in captivity. Follow us on twitter Click Here to Tweet!

Iguana Care Sheet

Iguana Care Sheet

The Green Iguana (Iguana iguana) is considered by many people a beginners pet...nothing is further from the truth. Iguanas require specialized care and management that is generally beyond the knowledge of most novices. It is because of this lack of knowledge that a majority of juvenile iguanas die prematurely. Iguana owners need to be aware of the specialized diet and housing requirements that the green iguana requires. If looking for a great beginner reptile or amphibian pet, consider a corn snake, milk snake, ball python, leopard gecko, bearded dragon, or pac man frog. All of these species are fun and a great way to begin in the hobby!

Native to: Central and South America. Imported iguanas are generally from Columbia, El Salvador, Honduras, Peru, Mexico, and Surinam.

Size: Adult iguanas range in size from four to six feet in length.

Life span: If properly cared for, iguanas should live more than 20 years in captivity.

Housing requirements:

• Enclosure: The enclosure for an adult iguana is very large. The enclosure should be at least six feet tall, about 1½ to twice the length of the iguana, and 2/3 to one full length of the iguana wide. For a six foot adult iguana, this is an enclosure that is 9 to 12 feet long, four to six feet wide, and at least six feet tall. Sufficient branches and shelves for climbing and lounging should also be provided. To give you perspective on the size of the enclosure, most small bedrooms are only 9 feet wide. This is why many owners dedicate a separate room as their "iguana room." Some owners also allow their iguanas to "free range" throughout the house. If you allow your iguana to live in its own room or free range, be sure the keep the area the iguana will frequent free of small objects that the iguana may accidentally ingest.
• Temperature: Iguanas come from a tropical climate and need to be kept warm. Daytime temperatures should be 80° - 85° F with a basking spot of 90° - 95° F. There should be a range of temperatures offered to the iguana to allow it to thermoregulate itself. Nighttime temperatures should be 75° - 80° F. All temperatures should be verified with a thermometer regularly.
• Heat/Light: Ultraviolet lighting providing UVA and UVB is required for proper calcium metabolism and skeletal development. Without the proper lighting your will become sick and die a very painful death. Proper lighting can be provided utilizing fluorescent tubes specially made for use by reptiles as well as mercury vapor bulbs that also provide some heat as well. Additional heat can be provided utilizing infrared ceramic emitters and incandescent basking bulbs. Hot rocks should never be used under any circumstance as they can severely burn your iguana.
• Substrate: Iguanas will often tongue lick their surroundings. Because of this most particulate substrate (wood shavings, mulch, sand, or powder types) are not appropriate for most iguanas. Newspaper with non-toxic ink, butcher's paper, paper towels, indoor/outdoor carpeting, or artificial grass all make excellent choices. If using indoor/outdoor carpeting or artificial grass please be sure that there are no dangling strings that could tangle in your iguana's nails. It's also recommended that you have multiple pieces so that you may replace the soiled pieces with the clean set and then clean and disinfect the current set to use for the next cleaning.
• Environment: Iguanas come from a tropical climate and require a humidity level of 65% to 75%. To achieve this may require several mistings a day. Many people opt to purchase an automatic misting system instead.

Diet: Iguanas are strict herbivores. Many older literatures will suggest feeding animal protein or even cat food. While some wild iguanas may ingest the occasional insect while eating leaves, it is not a significant portion on their diet. Iguanas that are fed too much animal protein will develop health problems and will die prematurely. A well balanced iguana diet will consist of about 40% to 45% greens (this includes, but is not limited to collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens (with flowers), escarole, and/or water cress), 40% to 45% other vegetables (this includes but is not limited to green beans, orange-fleshed squashes (butternut, Kabocha), snap or snow peas, parsnip, asparagus, okra, alfalfa (mature, not sprouts), onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, sweet potato, zucchini, yellow squash, and/or carrots), 10% or less of fruits (including, but not limited to Figs (raw or dried), blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, grapes, mango, melon (cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon), papaya, banana, and/or apple), and less than 5% of other grains or commercial diets. Iguanas should never be rhubarb as it is toxic. Certain lettuces such as iceberg, romaine, and Boston butter lack sufficient nutrients and should only be fed occasionally. Acidic fruits (citrus, tomatoes, kiwi, pineapples, etc.) should also be only fed occasionally as well. Tofu can be occasionally offered as well for supplemental protein, though if too much is given it can lead to long term health issues. Wild plants and flowers are not recommended since they may be toxic to your iguana or may contain pesticides that could be toxic as well.

Maintenance: Cleanliness of the enclosure is essential. Waste products should be removed daily and the enclosure should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected regularly. A 5% bleach solution provides and excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the solution from the enclosure before placing the iguana back in. Fresh water should also be offered at all times. Always wash your hands after handling your iguana or any of your iguana's cage accessories.

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Blue Iguana Recovery Program

Grand Cayman Blue Iguana - Photo: John Binns

(CNS): Grand Cayman’s famous Blue Iguanas are one more step further away from extinction following Cabinet’s decision to allocate Crown property to the National Trust coupled with a grant from the European Union to develop the protected area, where 100 hatch-ling Blue Iguanas will be released in 2010. However, the Blue Iguana Recovery Program’s director Fred Burton says they will still have to raise much more money to complete the program.

The EU grant is designed to cover 57% of the total cost of this particular project, which will fund the majority of the cost of a visitor center and trails, plus education and awareness materials and programs that will be based there, Burton said. However, BIRP and its supporters will have to put in a significant amount of other money and paid time, as well as find the funding for the access. “So, there is challenge which comes with the opportunity!” Burton said.

He further noted that the EU grant will be in Euros which as has since lost buying power here in the exchange rate. “So we are expected to, and will have to, raise a fair sum more to be able to deliver.”

In a released statement, BIRP said the Cayman Islands Government had formally committed to protecting almost 200 acres of Crown land in the east interior of Grand Cayman, through a 99-year peppercorn lease to the National Trust. The decision by Cabinet is linked to a European Union grant to the National Trust, for managing this area to conserve Grand Cayman Blue Iguanas in the wild, along with their unique shrub land habitat. The grant also focuses on developing sustainable, low-impact nature tourism, education and recreation with a visitor center and trail system.

BIRP noted that in 2008 the Blue Iguana Recovery Program began rearing over 100 hatch-ling Blue Iguanas, trusting that a new protected area would be established in time to release them in 2010. Now a release site is guaranteed, these young iguanas do indeed have a future, and another hundred or more Blue Iguanas will hopefully be hatched in 2009, for release in 2011.

While blanket protection of the environment in the form of a Nation Conservation Bill was not brought before the Legislative Assembly under the current administration, the release said Minister of Tourism and Environment, Charles Clifford, wished the conservation effort of this programs every success.

“The preservation of our indigenous Blue Iguana is important to our country and I am grateful Cabinet was able to allocate an appropriate piece of property to the National Trust to assist them in their efforts to save the Blue Iguanas. I also want to thank the European Union for their grant which makes this project possible. The grant along with the allocation of the land by Cabinet provides a tremendous boost to the National Trust’s efforts to establish a viable population of Blue Iguanas in their natural habitat,” the minister said.

“This is the breakthrough we have been working towards for years,” said Burton. “With this new protected area secured and available for iguana releases, we are now in sight of the kind of success that is all too rare in the world today. The Grand Cayman Blue Iguana really can be saved from extinction, and in a few more years the Cayman Islands may be able to boast that they have achieved just that.”

According to BIRP, this area is almost all pristine dry shrub land, a wild rocky landscape with views over the generally low native vegetation. This is an environment that Blue Iguanas thrive in. It also supports a range of endangered plants, several of which, like the Grand Cayman Blue Iguana, are totally unique to the Cayman Islands.

The Trust must now acquire access to the land, and a Protected Area Planning Team will commence work on the overall land use plan, including site location for the visitor center and layout of the trail system.

Eastern protected areas Grand Cayman - Photo: Blue Iguana Recovery Program