Eastern Blue-tongued Lizard

The Eastern Blue-tongued Lizard (Tiliqua scincoides scincoides) is a subspecies of large Skink which is common throughout Eastern Australia, often found in bushland and suburban areas where conditions are suitable. They are known as blue-tongues because their tongue ranges from bright to dark blue, and they have a habit of displaying it prominently and hissing loudly when disturbed.

The Blue-tongued Lizard is a stout and slow lizard that grows up to 300-600mm (11.81-23.62 inches) in length, with brown to grey scales and a barred pattern across the body and tail. The underside is usually pale. Blue-tongued Lizards are popular as Pets and can live for up to 30 years in captivity. They give birth to live young, between six, to a record twenty per litter. The young consume the egg sac immediately after birth. They resemble the adult form closely. There are several other types of blue-tongued lizard, genus Tiligua, such as the Northern Blue Tongued Skink and the Shingleback or Stump Scaled Skink.

RED EAR SLIDER CARE

RED EAR SLIDER CARESHEET

Common name: Red-Eared Slider Latin name: Trachemys scripta elegans

Native to: Mississippi River valley and tributaries from Indiana to the Gulf of Mexico

Size: Average adult is 5-8 inches; females are larger than males of same age.

Life span: 15-25 Years

General appearance: Young are bright green with yellow markings and a red stripe just behind the eyes. Colors dull with age.

Housing requirements:Enclosure:
Should be mostly aquatic. Minimum dimensions for tank are: width - 3 times the shell length and length - 6 times the shell length. Minimum depth of the water should be as deep as the shell is wide. A basking area is needed to allow the turtle to get out of the water to dry completely. UV lighting can be beneficial.

Temperature: The water should be 70-75 F and can be maintained with a submersible aquarium heater. The basking area should be 84-88F during the daylight period. This can be maintained with an incandescent light.

Substrate: Substrate is not recommended. Frequent water changes make it difficult to clean.

Diet: Feeding should be daily with all they can eat in 45 minutes. Remove all food remaining after that time, except for greens. Just because they beg for food does not necessarily mean they're hungry, this is a trained condition. Diet should be at least 65-85% meat consisting of commercial turtle food, trout chow, beef heart, cooked chicken, fish live or fresh caught (not frozen). Meat should be dusted once a week with a good herp vitamin containing D3. Dark green leafy vegetables can be used to fill the rest of the diet.

Maintenance: Water should be clean and clear. Waste should be removed whenever it is found. Filtration prolongs the time between water changes, but should not be used as a substitute for water changes. Wastewater should not be emptied into a sink that is used for food preparation or personal hygiene. Hands and any other part of your body that comes in contact with the water should be washed thoroughly with anti-bacterial soap.

Other references or recommended reading: General Care and Maintenance of Red-Eared Sliders: Philippe de Vosjoli Encyclopedia of Turtles: Dr. Peter C. H. Pritchard Turtles of the World: Carl H. Earnst and Roger W. Barbour Encyclopedia of Keeping and Breeding Tortoises and Freshwater Turtles: A. C. Highfield

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Arachnid as Pets

Why Choose and Insect or Spider? Insects and spiders can be fascinating to watch. They are extremely quiet, clean pets that do not need much room to live. Insects and spiders also require little attention or socialization (in fact, they generally do best with little interaction). However, before deciding on an insect or spider as a pet, look at your reasons for wanting this kind of pet. If you are just looking for a pet that is unique or "cool," or for a pet to impress or shock your friends, think again. Insects and spiders are unique and while they are not overly demanding in their care, you must make the same level of commitment to caring for them as any other pet. Too many owners get pets on impulse and once the novelty wears off they tire of caring for them.

Choosing the Right Pet If you are just starting out with an insect or spider, you are best off choosing a species that is neither delicate nor dangerous. Perhaps the ultimate beginner insect would be the hissing cockroach - they are easy to care for and as a rule are pretty docile and lack serious weapons (not venomous, don't sting, etc.). Some tarantulas are also acceptable for beginners, such as the Chilean rose, Mexican Redleg, or Costa Rican Zebra. These species are not terribly venomous and are fairly docile compared to some other tarantulas (their venom is akin to bee venom, perhaps, although the venom [u]can[/u] provoke an anaphylactic reaction). Stick and leaf insects and mantids are a little more fragile, although they are quite easy to maintain and are quite popular in the UK. Keep in mind that if you have children, most insect pets fall into the "look but don't touch" category, mostly because they are too fragile for all but the most gentle handling (clearly, venomous creatures are also inappropriate for children to handle). Hissing cockroaches are a good exception to this rule, since they are large enough to handle and are pretty sturdy and docile. The traditional ant farm is often interesting for kids too, although kids may lose interest since they cannot interact with the ants, (and an escaped ant colony is a risk!).

What You Need to Consider before Deciding on a Insect or Spider

• Check with local, county and state government agencies regarding legality. There may be regulations in some areas.

• Find out about the care (housing, environment, diet) needed for the pet you are considering. While many insects and spider pets are inexpensive to obtain, providing the right environment can be tricky for some species, especially for the more exotic tarantulas. As a general rule, you want to mimic their natural environment as much as possible. Find out what is needed for food and consider if you can provide the proper diet. For example, hissing cockroaches are easy to feed, whereas stick insects need fresh vegetation and tarantulas need prey insects. Will you be able to provide and and be comfortable feeding the necessary items?

• Check into the life span. Most insect pets are pretty short lived, but some tarantulas can live for 20-30 years (and females are much longer lived than males).

• Find out how to properly handle the pet. While this obvious for venomous animals, it is very important for all insects and arachnids as they can be injured by improper handling.

• Find out, from a reputable source, the exact species of insect or spider and if it is venomous. Keep in mind that even a mildly venomous tarantula can cause a great deal of pain, and tarantulas have special hairs on their abdomen which they shed if threatened and which can be extremely irritating (and dangerous if they get in the eyes). If you are getting a tarantula, make sure you find out how best to avoid bites, but also how to deal with bites if they should happen, and what to do if exposed to their irritating hairs.

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How To: Properly Clean A Reptile Cage

Exo Terra Rainforest Habitat Kit Shown

How To: Properly Clean a Reptile Cage

Reptiles require special care to maintain cleanliness. Routine cage maintenance is necessary to keep it a safe and healthy home for your herp, and an enjoyable, odor-free, and attractive showplace for your enjoyment as well.

Because reptiles are susceptible to skin and bacterial infections, cages and housing must be kept scrupulously clean. And because their fecal matter may carry bacteria, like Salmonella, that can cause disease in humans, your reptile's cage, furnishings, and the cleaning equipment itself need to be regularly cleaned and periodically disinfected.

Start with clean cage accessories

Make sure any natural items, such as rocks and branches, that you introduce into the environment are sterile. Rocks should be cleaned, then boiled in water for 30 minutes. Sand can be rinsed with large amounts of water to remove any particulate debris, then heated in the oven at 200-250°F for 30 minutes. Branches should also be cleaned, then heated in the oven at 200-250°F for 30 minutes.

Cleaning tools

Assemble a cleaning kit expressly for cleaning the cage. Store these items separately from your other household cleaning supplies. To prevent cross-contamination, never use sinks or tubs that are used for human bathing or food preparation. (many of these supplies can be found at your local dollar store)

• Back-up cage - a clean environment for the minutes, hours, or even days your herp must be relocated. (Faunariums or Breeding boxes from Exo Terra are excellent for this)
• Brushes - small and medium sizes depending on your cage. A toothbrush is good for corners and crevices in decorations.
• Buckets
• Herp-safe terrarium cleaner - dissolves matter hardened on surfaces.
• Paper towels
• Q-tips, toothpicks, putty knives, and razor blades - needed to reach into the smallest of spaces, and remove hardened material.
• Rubber gloves and goggles
• Sand-sifter - removes feces and other debris from sand and other fine-particulate substrates.
• Soap or dishwashing detergent - do not use any products that contain phenol or pine scent.
• Sponges - 1 set for cleaning, one for rinsing, and one for disinfecting.

Cleaning schedule

The timing and amount of routine cage cleaning depends on the size and habits of your herp. Begin by reading everything available regarding its species-specific needs and preferences. Cages of large iguanas, for example, require more work than those of a snake. Of course, you will also learn from close personal observation. In general, you will need to perform:

• A daily cleaning to remove spills, uneaten food, shed skin, Urine, or feces; also clean and disinfect food and water dishes.
• A weekly cleaning and disinfecting the cage, substrate, and decorations.

During cleaning procedures, it is recommended to use rubber or latex gloves and protective goggles. After every contact with your herp, and every cleaning procedure - no matter how large or small - wash your hands thoroughly; you may also wish to use a hand sanitizer.

Daily cleaning

Disinfectants • Selecting the proper disinfectant for cages must be done carefully. The disinfectant must be strong enough to kill disease-causing viruses, bacteria, and fungi, yet not cause harm to the herp. Reptiles are sensitive to toxic fumes, so care must be taken to move them to another room while using most disinfectants. • Although there are many disinfectants on the market, the most readily available disinfectant for cleaning a cage is household bleach. Use bleach at a dilution of approximately 1 part bleach to 16 parts water (1 cup bleach to 1 gallon of water). Other disinfectants safe for herps may be available from your veterinarian. • It is important to remove food, feces, soaps, etc., before using any disinfectant since the presence of organic material will prevent it from working properly. So clean any soiled areas of the cage or its accessories with a hot solution of dishwashing liquid, rinse well, then apply the disinfectant. • Apply the disinfectant liberally to the cage and accessories. Allow the disinfectant to have contact with the material for 10 minutes; if an item is porous, a longer time may be needed. Rinse the items, especially any wooden items, thoroughly with clean water to remove all the disinfectant. For your safety and comfort, use the bleach solution in an area that is adequately ventilated. Rubber gloves and safety goggles are also recommended. Allow the cage and all items to dry thoroughly before reassembling and placing the herp back into the cage.

As you clean, it is important to look for any signs that your herp may be ill. Also, watch for hazardous conditions in the cage, and remove or correct them. Observe:

• Has the normal amount of food been eaten?
• Is the temperature of the cage within the proper limits?
• Are the feces and urates normal in appearance and quantity?
• Has there been any shedding? Does it appear normal?
• Is there any evidence of parasites?
• Mites appear as small brown, red, or black spots around your reptile's eyes, between its scales, or moving over the animal's skin.
• Ticks are slightly larger, appearing brown, black, or gray in color.
• Internal parasitic infestations are most often signaled by emaciation or changes in the feces.
• Do any of the accessories appear frayed or need to be replaced?
• Is the cage in good repair?

Daily, remove feces and uneaten food, and wipe up water spills and urates. If you are using a sand substrate, you can use a Sand Sifter to clean and extend its life.

If you deem it necessary to clean the inside the cage with a cleaning solution, relocate your herp to another clean cage until the cage is dry and free of fumes.

Food and water dishes should be washed in hot, soapy water, and dried thoroughly. To provide more cleaning power, use a disinfectant. Always rinse well to be sure no trace of soap or disinfectant remains on the dishes. A good alternative is to have two or more sets of dishes, so while one set is being cleaned, the other set can be used in the cage.

Routine weekly cleaning

Once a week, or as often as needed, relocate your herp to a clean cage, then…

• Remove all decorations in the cage.
• Clean, rinse, and disinfect water bowls and food bowls, as above.
• Bag and discard disposable substrate.
• Clean all cage surfaces with soap and hot water, and rinse well.
• Loosen tough spots with a commercial herp-safe terrarium cleaner, a toothbrush, or putty knife.
• Wash all decorations and nondisposable substrate, such as indoor/outdoor carpet, with hot, soapy water. Scrub with brushes to remove wastes and dried liquids. Rinse well.
• After washing and rinsing the cage and accessories, use a disinfectant. Be sure to rinse the cage and accessories with hot water until all residues are removed.
• Allow the cage and accessories to dry thoroughly before reassembling to reduce the possibility of mold.
• Re-install decorations. Replace any decoration, especially wood, which will not easily dry.
• Be sure to thoroughly clean and disinfect all equipment, sponges, buckets, gloves, and sinks.
• Lastly, wash your hands with hot, soapy water.

Acclimation

If bathing is recommended for your herp, it is a good idea to bathe your herp before introducing it into its newly cleaned, dry, odor-free cage.

PACMAN FROGS (Ornate Horned Frog)

Pacman Frogs
This frog is relatively common in the pet trade, and gets its common (pet trade) name from the popular video game. The frog's generally rounded appearance and huge mouth led to the cute name. The frog's scientific name is Ceratophrys ornata, and it is also known as the ornate horned frog.

Pacman frogs are native to South America, and are terrestrial in nature. In fact, they are very poor swimmers and care must be taken that they do not drown in their water bowls.

These frogs are quite large, and can reach around 6-7 inches in length (15-17 cm), although males tend to be quite a bit smaller than females. They are generally about as wide as they are long, so are quite hefty for a frog. Their appetite matches their size, and they will pretty much eat anything that moves.

Pacman frogs have a reputation for being somewhat aggressive, which is largely undeserved. While they do sometimes bite, it is usually a case of the frog feeling threatened or simply confusing a finger with a food item.

Housing
Pacman frogs, despite their large size, are not very active and do not need a large cage. A 10 gallon tank is fine for one of these frogs. Because they will often try to eat cage mates, they should be kept singly. A cage top is recommended -- although they are not a huge risk for escapes, a cage top will help maintain temperature and humidity.

In the wild they spend much of their time in damp leaf litter. In captivity, the cage can be lined with paper or smooth rocks, as long as leaf litter or moss and some plants (live or artificial) are provided that the frog can burrow/hide in. They come from a humid environment so the substrate should be misted daily to help maintain humidity. In addition a shallow bowl of water should be provided. The dish must be fairly shallow (e.g. a ceramic saucer from a plant pot) to minimize the risk of the frog drowning.

Depending on how humid your tank is, the frog might spend much of its time in its water dish, so providing plants around the dish will help your frog feel secure. The water dish should also be in a warmer part of the cage.

The temperature should be kept around 82 F (28 C) during the day, dropping to around 78 F (25 C) at night. Heating is best supplied by an under tank heater as overhead incandescent bulbs can be too drying (although a red incandescent could be used if supplemental heat is needed at colder times).

For lighting, a fluorescent fixture can be used, although they might prefer more subdued lighting and regular room light may be enough. A 12 hour light - 12 hour dark cycle can be provided. The use of full spectrum lighting for amphibians is somewhat controversial but probably isn't strictly necessary if a balanced diet is provided. The tank should be away from direct sunlight, to prevent overheating.

Feeding
Pacman frogs are pretty easy to feed in that they are not usually fussy eaters. Smaller frogs can be fed insects such as crickets or other common pet store prey insects such as mealworms, wax worms etc. These should be gut loaded prior to feeding. As they grow, they can be fed pinkie (newborn) mice, and larger mice can be fed as the frog grows. Eventually they may take a medium sized mouse or pinkie rat. Guppies, a variety of insects, and even small frogs can also be fed. While small pacman frogs (eating insects) should be fed daily, larger frogs can be fed mice or feeder fish every 2-3 days. Adult frogs can probably be fed less frequently - the best guide is to feed based on your frog's body condition (if your frog is getting too round and fat, cut back how often it is fed).

Conclusion

Pacman frogs are not terribly difficult to care for, so can make a good pet that is quite attractive and interesting. However, people who like their pets active or interactive may get tired of caring for a pacman frog. Considering a these frogs can live for 7 -10 years, getting one of these frogs amounts to a long term commitment.

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Columbian Red Tailed Boa

Peruvian red Tailed Boa Shown in pic

Columbian Red-Tailed Boa
This attractive snake is desirable because it is readily tamed and easy to maintain. The captive born and raised Colombian Boas are usually very docile. They can easily be kept by a beginner as well as the experienced herptile keeper. Very young snakes are delicate and subject to illness so look for small adults.

Distribution: The Colombian Boa or Common Boa is found throughout a large range of South America. They are found in Colombia of course, but also in Guyana, Peru, Suriname, Hogg Island, Venezuela, and more.

Description: The Colombian Boa will grow to between six and nine feet, though they can reach up to 12 feet. The males are smaller than the females. This Snake is robust, with a triangular head separated from the body by a thin neck.
Their natural coloring is a pattern of elongated, saddle like, pale gray patches on a background of rich chocolate to almost chestnut brown. The sides are paler with dark brown, diamond shaped spots that have white centers. The undersides are yellowish, spotted with black. The chestnut brown coloring becomes progressively brighter until it is a brick red or pure red, and they are thus sometimes called the 'Colombian Red Tailed Boa'. This name is a bit misleading as the True Red Tail Boa Boa c. constrictor, is the nominant race.

Feeding: They are a constrictor and their diet consists of mice, rats, small rabbits and the large snakes can also eat chickens. Feed once or twice a week, depending on the size of the food and the size of the snake. As you get to know your snake, you'll learn what its feeding needs are. Fresh water in a good size water dish should always be available.

Environment: These snakes are best kept singly except when they are being bred, but you may be able to keep them with other snakes the same size as long as you feed them separately.
The Colombian Boa constrictor needs a good size cage. Its' housing can be set up as a woodland type terrarium, but keep the decor to the minimum. A good size water dish will provide moderate humidity as well as a place for soaking and drinking. A heavy limb for climbing on, resting on, and to aid in shedding makes the perfect decor.

Temperature and Lighting requirements: They do well at 82° to 95° F in the daytime and 72° to 80° F at night. Full Spectrum Lighting is important for your snakes well being and its long-term maintenance. You can use a substrate heating device for basic heating. For additional heat, you can add a full spectrum incandescent daytime bulb and a blacklight bulb or red incandescent bulb for nighttime heating. Be sure you use a thermometer so you don't let the terrarium become overheated!

Breeding/Reproduction: These snakes, if not babies, need to be probe sexed for positive sex identification, and they bear live young. Their gestation period can range from four to six months. The litters are large with up to 30 babies, each about 24 inches (61 cm) long and resembling the coloring and patterning of their parents. They are fairly easy to breed in captivity.

Availability: The Colombian Boa constrictors or Common boas are very common and readily available due to captive breeding.

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Tokay Gecko Info

Common Name

Tokay Gecko

Scientific Name

Gekko gecko

Wild Distribution

Tokay geckos have a wide range and are native to Northeast India, Southeast Asia, Indonesia, New Guinea and the Philippines. The Tokay gecko has also been introduced as an invasive species to Belize, Florida, Texas, Hawaii and some Caribbean islands.

The natural habitat of this arboreal gecko is the trees and cliffs of the tropical rain forest. They can often be found dwelling in and around human settlements where they can find easy shelter and are often valued for their insect pest control.

Description

The Tokay gecko is the second largest gecko in the world. Adult males can reach 12-14" in total length. Female Tokay geckos are slightly smaller averaging 8-10" long. An adult tokay gecko averages 5-7 ounces in weight, but particularly large males may achieve weights closer to 11.5 ounces. Hatchling tokay geckos start life at 3.5"-4" and reach breeding age in 9-12 months, but it may take up to 2 years for a tokay gecko to reach is full adult size. Male tokay geckos are a blue-grey body color with spotting that varies in color from redish-orange to whitish-yellow. Females tokays are a grey body color with the same spotting and generally not as brightly colored as the males. Both sexes have the ability to lighten and darken their skin to some degree to help them blend into their surroundings.

Lifespan

Wild Tokay geckos have an average lifespan of 7-10 years. In captivity, Tokay geckos can live up to 20 years with proper care.

More info

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Frilled Lizard

Undoubtedly, one of the quirkiest sights in nature is the gangly retreat of an Australian frilled lizard. When this unique creature feels threatened, it rises on its hind legs, opens its yellow-colored mouth, unfurls the colorful, pleated skin flap that encircles its head, and hisses. If an attacker is unintimidated by these antics, the lizard simply turns tail, mouth and frill open, and bolts, legs splaying left and right. It continues its deliberate run without stopping or looking back until it reaches the safety of a tree.

Frilled lizards, or "frillnecks," are members of the dragon family that live in the tropical and warm temperate forests and savanna woodlands of northern Australia. They spend most of their lives in the trees, but descend occasionally to feed on ants and small lizards. Other menu items include spiders, cicadas, termites, and small mammals.

They vary in color and size from region to region. On average, the larger adults reach about 3 feet (0.9 meters) from head to tail and weigh up to 1.1 pounds (0.5 kilograms).

Their main predators are birds of prey, larger lizards, snakes, dingoes and feral cats. They are currently not threatened or protected, but habitat reduction and predation in some areas, particularly by feral cats, is affecting their populations.

Females lay 8 to 23 tiny eggs in an underground nest, and hatchlings emerge fully independent and capable of hunting and utilizing their frill. Their lifespan in the wild is unknown, but specimens in captivity have lived 20 years.

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The Green Basilisk Lizard

The green basilisk lizard is also called a plumed or double-crested basilisk; but its amazing ability to run on water gives this species its most recognizable moniker: the Jesus Christ lizard.

Abundant in the tropical rain forests of Central America, from southern Mexico to Panama, green basilisks spend much of their time in the trees and are never far from a body of water. When threatened, they can drop from a tree into the water and sprint, upright, about 5 feet (1.5 meters) per second across the surface.

To accomplish this, they have long toes on their rear feet with fringes of skin that unfurl in the water, increasing surface area. As they rapidly churn their legs, they slap their splayed feet hard against the water, creating a tiny air pocket that keeps them from sinking, provided they maintain their speed. They can move along the surface like this for 15 feet (4.5 meters) or more. When gravity eventually does take over, the basilisk resorts to its excellent swimming skills to continue its flight.

Part of the iguana family, green basilisks grow to about 2 feet (61 centimeters) in length, including their long, whip-like tail. Males have distinctive, high crests on their heads and backs, which they use to impress females.

Pregnant females prepare a shallow trench where they lay up to 20 eggs. The mother then leaves the eggs to hatch on their own. Hatchlings are born with the ability to run (on land and water), climb, and swim.

Green basilisks are omnivores, surviving on a diet of plant material, insects, fruit, and small vertebrates. They are common throughout their range and have no special status, but abundant natural predators like snakes and birds keep these amazing lizards on their toes.

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Scorpions

Scorpions are members of the class Arachnida and are closely related to spiders, mites, and ticks. They are commonly thought of as desert dwellers, but they also live in Brazilian forests, British Columbia, North Carolina, and even the Himalayas. These hardy, adaptable arthropods have been around for hundreds of millions of years, and they are nothing if not survivors. There are almost 2,000 scorpion species, but only 30 or 40 have strong enough poison to kill a person. The many types of venom are effectively tailored to their users' lifestyles, however, and are highly selected for effectiveness against that species' chosen prey. Scorpions typically eat insects, but their diet can be extremely variable—another key to their survival in so many harsh locales. When food is scarce, the scorpion has an amazing ability to slow its metabolism to as little as one-third the typical rate for arthropods. This technique enables some species to use little oxygen and live on as little as a single insect per year. Yet even with lowered metabolism, the scorpion has the ability to spring quickly to the hunt when the opportunity presents itself—a gift that many hibernating species lack. Such survival skills allow scorpions to live in some of the planet's toughest environments. Researchers have even frozen scorpions overnight, only to put them in the sun the next day and watch them thaw out and walk away (Please Don't Try This). But there is one thing scorpions have a difficult time living without—soil. They are burrowing animals, so in areas of permafrost or heavy grasses, where loose soil is not available, scorpions may not be able to survive.

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The Meller's Chameleon

The Meller's chameleon is the largest of the chameleons not native to Madagascar. Their stout bodies can grow to be up to two feet (two-thirds of a meter) long and weigh more than a pound (one-half kilogram).

Meller's distinguish themselves from their universally bizarre-looking cousins with a single small horn protruding from the front of their snouts. This and their size earn them the common name "giant one-horned chameleon."

They are fairly common in the savanna of East Africa, including Malawi, northern Mozambique, and Tanzania. Almost one-half of the world’s chameleons live on the island of Madagascar.

As with all chameleons, Meller's will change colors in response to stress and to communicate with other chameleons. Their normal appearance is deep green with yellow stripes and random black spots. Females are slightly smaller, but are otherwise indistinguishable from males.

They subsist on insects and small birds, using their camouflage and a lightning-fast, catapulting tongue, which can be up to 20 inches (50 centimeters) long, to ambush prey.

Exotic pet enthusiasts often attempt to keep Meller's chameleons as pets. However, they are highly susceptible to even the slightest level of stress and are very difficult to care for in captivity. In the wild, they can live as long as 12 years.

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Poison Dart Frogs

Poison dart frogs, members of the Dendrobatidae family, wear some of the most brilliant and beautiful colors on Earth. Depending on individual habitats, which extend from the tropical forests of Costa Rica to Brazil, their coloring can be yellow, gold, copper, red, green, blue, or black. Their elaborate designs and hues are deliberately ostentatious to ward off potential predators, a tactic called aposematic coloration.

Some species display unusual parenting habits, including carrying both eggs and tadpoles on their backs. Although this "backpacking" is not unique among amphibians, male poison arrow frogs are exceptional in their care, attending to the clutch, sometimes exclusively, and performing vital transportation duties.

Dendrobatids include some of the most toxic animals on Earth. The two-inch-long (five-centimeter-long) golden poison dart frog has enough venom to kill 10 grown men. Indigenous Emberá people of Colombia have used its powerful venom for centuries to tip their blowgun darts when hunting, hence the genus' common name.

Scientists are unsure of the source of poison dart frogs' toxicity, but it is possible they assimilate plant poisons which are carried by their prey, including ants, termites and beetles. Poison dart frogs raised in captivity and isolated from insects in their native habitat never develop venom.

The medical research community has been exploring possible medicinal uses for some poison dart frog venom. They have already developed a synthetic version of one compound that shows promise as a painkiller.

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