Leopard Gecko Habitat Setup

Leopard Gecko Habitat
by DFS
Though Leopard Geckos are some of the easiest lizards to care for, it is still very important that you set up their habitat properly. They have unique housing requirements that must be met if you want to maintain their overall health and well-being. The following tips will help you provide your Leopard Gecko with a healthy, safe, and enjoyable home.

Dome lamp and black or red reptile bulb or ceramic heater Mesh or screen top Thermometers and a hygrometer Artificial plants Moist hide box, filled with damp moss or Eco-Earth Dishes for water, mealworms, and calcium powder Cage Carpet or another gecko-safe substrate Under Tank Heater (UTH) if needed to maintain proper temperature Shelter or hideaway (at least one per gecko)

Enclosure/Cage
The best terrariums for Leopard Geckos are those that are long and shallow. The minimum size for one Leopard Gecko is 10 gallons, and you will need to increase the size of the terrarium if you have multiple lizards. A pair will need a 15-gallon tank, and three or four lizards will need at least a 20-gallon tank.

Wire cages are not acceptable. Leopard Geckos must be housed in glass terrariums for their safety and to prevent them from escaping. Unlike some other geckos, Leopard Geckos cannot climb glass very well. The terrarium should have a wire mesh lid that provides proper ventilation and allows light through.

The substrate that you use should be non-abrasive and non-irritating to your Leopard Gecko's sensitive skin. It should be something that you can easily clean and replace, and it should not create any type of dust. Improper use of substrate can result in infection, respiratory problems, and toxic reactions. Substrates to avoid include cedar, pine, hardwood chips, gravel, cat litter, sawdust, and corncob bedding. Safe substrate that you can use in your Leopard Gecko's enclosure includes artificial turf, paper toweling, and newspaper. Many people use sand as well, but there have been some instances of problems, including ingestion of the sand and sand in stools. If you are using sand and you see any problems developing, switch substrates immediately.

Landscaping, Furniture, and Plants
The items that you put in your Leopard Gecko's cage will help to make his environment as natural as possible, and the more elaborate the setup, the more you will encourage your gecko's natural behaviors. Things like rocks and logs will create a natural living space as well as provide him with places to climb and exercise. Live or artificial plants can be used to provide more hiding areas and a more natural feel, but they are not necessary. If you wish to use a live plant, choose carefully - by researching the plant or consulting a veterinarian - as some plants can be toxic to reptiles.

Every Leopard Gecko enclosure needs areas for three things: Hiding, activity, and basking. Hiding areas consist of commercial hide boxes, overlapping rocks, inverted clay pots and sections of curved bark, and any other shelter that supplies your gecko with a place to sleep and conceal himself. There should be at least two hiding areas, and the more geckos you house in one terrarium, the more hiding spots you will need.

Activity areas are open areas where your gecko can climb, exercise, or just move around. You can place smooth rocks and wood in these areas to facilitate climbing.

Basking areas can be a flat, smooth rock or wood under a light, and there should be at least one spot per gecko. The more geckos you have, the more basking spots you will need.

When creating the above areas, there are certain materials that you should not use. Avoid using sharp or abrasive rocks, as they can injure your Leopard Gecko's skin if he rubs against it during shedding. Cedar and other resinous woods should also be avoided, as they are toxic to Leopard Geckos.

Temperature
Leopard Geckos are "ectothermic," meaning that they cannot produce their own body heat, so they need supplemental heat sources. Their tank should be approximately 80° to 85°F during the day, and the basking area should be about 88°-90°F. Nighttime temperature should be in the 70s. To ensure that your gecko's enclosure is the proper temperature, use a thermometer.

However, the area outside of the basking spot should not be a uniform temperature. Leopard Geckos practice "thermoregulation," meaning that they will move into hotter or cooler areas to raise or lower their body temperature as needed. The terrarium should consist of several different temperature gradients, and there should be at least one hide in each gradient.

Primary heat sources are used to maintain the overall temperature throughout the cage, and they can include heat tapes, under tank heaters, and overhead heat sources.

Secondary heat sources are used to create hot spots (such as basking areas) within the cage, and they can include red or black basking lights.

Light
It is important to recreate natural light cycles when setting up your Leopard Gecko's habitat. During the summer, they should have approximately 14 hours of light following by 10 hours of darkness. During the winter, they need shorter daytime periods of about 12 hours of light followed by 12 hours of darkness. To achieve the desired photoperiods, we recommend that you use automatic timers. Changes between summer and winter photoperiods should be made gradually.

Lights that you can use include black heat lamps (day and night) and red lamps (day and night). Since Leopard Geckos are nocturnal and dislike bright light, the use of UV bulbs is not necessary. In fact, if exposed to bright white light, the Leopard Gecko may become stressed. Make sure there are plenty of areas in the terrarium throughout the various temperature gradients where your gecko can hide and get out of the light. All light bulbs should be placed outside the terrarium above the lid.

Humidity
Leopard Geckos have very specific humidity requirements to encourage proper shedding cycles and prevent dehydration. A high humidity level can leave your gecko more susceptible to infections. The ideal humidity level should be 40% or lower, and you should monitor it using a hygrometer. Leopard Geckos require "humidified shelters" or a "moist box" to help facilitate shedding. These moist hideaways can be created by lining a shelter or box with moist substrate, such as sphagnum moss, peat moss, damp soil or other products.

Cleaning
Keeping your Leopard Gecko's habitat clean is an important part of maintaining a healthy habitat. Daily chores include:

• Remove waste, debris, dead feeder insects, and shed skin.
• Remove and clean any objects that have fecal matter on them.
• Clean and disinfect water bowls.
• Remove and replace soiled substrate.

Weekly chores include:

• Clean and disinfect enclosure thoroughly.
• Clean and disinfect interior items such as decorations, feeding and watering items, and any other items in the terrarium.
• Replace soiled substrate.

Avoid using cleaners that contain phenols or pine scents, as these are toxic to your gecko. If you are unsure of what products to use or how to use them, consult your veterinarian.

Because Leopard Geckos are nocturnal, the best time to clean the enclosure is at dusk or during the early morning hours. This will prevent you from disturbing their natural sleep cycles and causing unnecessary stress.

Water
Leopard Geckos need constant access to clean water. Provide water in a flat, shallow bowl, and change it daily. If there is fecal matter or drowned feeder insects in the water, change it immediately. Avoid using deep bowls, as this will limit your gecko's access to his water as well as present a drowning hazard to both your gecko and the feeder insects you give him.

Housing Multiple Leopard Geckos
Male Leopard Geckos are instinctually very territorial, so you can only have one male per enclosure. Females can be territorial as well, but it isn't as common as in males. If you plan to house multiple Leopard Geckos, be sure to purchase multiple females or multiple females and one male. Always watch them for signs of territoriality and aggression, and set up the habitat in such a way that it provides multiple hiding and activity areas. Because housing multiple geckos requires more space, we recommend a terrarium no smaller than 20 gallons for three or more geckos.

For a complete selection of Leopard gecko Supplies check out our website at http://www.thereptileking.com, don't forget to enter to win an Exo Terra Cameroon habitat kit and live reptile!

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CARING FOR YOUR WATER DRAGON

CARING FOR YOUR WATER DRAGON

The water dragon is a diurnal, semi-aquatic, arboreal, tropical lizard of Asia and Australia. If you're considering buying a water dragon, here are some facts about this lizard.

Appearance

The Asian water dragon is mainly green, with darker areas on the head and joints. The chin and throat are white to light yellow, and the underside is white to pale green. Water dragons do not have a dewlap, but possess large skin folds. A prominent dorsal crest runs from the neck to the tail. Juveniles are typically diagonally banded with 3 to 5 light stripes, usually pale blue to green in color, that disappear with age.

The eastern water dragon, from Australia, resembles the Asian water dragon in size and shape but is brown, with a gray to gray-brown underside. Broad black and narrow white crossbars run through the back and the tail of the animal.
A prominent dark horizontal stripe may be visible on each side of the head, starting from the eye toward the neck. Like the Asian species, a dorsal crest runs from the head to the tail.

Size and Longevity

Most adults usually reach 16 inches in length – the tail counting for half to two-thirds of the length - but some can reach up to a meter in length. They can live up to 11 years.

Behavior

Water dragons are less aggressive and more placid than green iguanas, although they are prone to intense spurts of speed. They also are smaller and more manageable than green iguanas, but like most diurnal lizards they require a spacious vivarium with high quality lighting and heating. All lizards can excrete salmonella, so it's important to be careful about personal hygiene and supervise children around these creatures.

This species is active but usually timid. They may attempt to flee when disturbed. Water dragons can sometimes be intolerant to other animals, so it's recommended to keep either a pair (male and female) or a maximum of a male and two females, together in a single vivarium.

Housing and Environment

In the wild, water dragons live in humid, sub-tropical to tropical forests, wooded streams and rocky littoral.

One to two water dragons can be kept in a 5 1/2-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot vivarium, but larger enclosures permit landscaping, a bigger water pool and overall better aesthetics of the setup. The vivarium should be high enough to install branches so the lizard can bask under a heat lamp or spotlight during the day.

These lizards are semi-aquatic and need a large water area in their enclosure, covering preferably at least a third of the floor. The water should be maintained at 77 degrees Fahrenheit. In most cases general vivarium heating will be sufficient, but an aquarium heater or a heat mat placed under the water container, can be used. The pool of water also will provide high humidity, which is essential for these lizards.

For hygienic reasons, line the floor with newspaper, granulated bark, artificial turf or alfalfa pellets. Replace the floor covering daily or weekly, depending on contamination. In addition to the branches, provide boxes, pieces of bark or hollow tree parts for hideouts.

Water dragons will try to escape from an unsuitable environment or evade dominant cage-mates. They do not seem to perceive glass, screen, or other clear material as a barrier and might hurt their nose by attempting to escape through these surfaces. Creating a visual barrier – putting tape across the glass – might help them see these obstacles and avoid injury.

Diet

Water dragons are mainly carnivorous, feeding on a variety of invertebrates, small mammals, birds, lizards, frogs, and on rare occasions, fruits and plant matter. In captivity they should be fed insects – crickets, locusts and wax worms – and the occasional pinky mice.

All insects should be nutrient "gut loaded" by feeding a commercial insect food or a mix of crushed fish pellets and calcium supplement, with a slice of potato for moisture. In addition, insects should be thoroughly dusted with a high calcium supplement immediately prior to feeding. It is wise to vary the food items to avoid potential nutrient excesses or deficiencies and multivitamins can be added to the dusting formula once or twice a week.

Juveniles should be fed the same diet as the adults, making sure smaller food items are used. As they grow they may accept some fruits, as well as pink mice. Juveniles should be fed every day, while adults can be fed every other day or two to three times a week.

Temperature and Humidity

Heat should be provided by a background heater (tubular heater, infrared through heaters, heat mats, etc.) and a radiant daytime heater (infrared ceramic bulbs, incandescent spotlights). These should be screened in order to prevent any contact burns with the water dragon.

The diurnal temperature variation is vital for proper digestion and assimilation of food and general health. A daytime temperature gradient of 77 to 86 F, with a basking area of 90 to 95 F, should be lowered to 72 to 77 F at night. Use a digital in/out thermometer with maximum/minimum memory to record the day and night thermal gradients within the vivarium.

Humidity of 80 to 100 percent is required for at least part of the day. If the large water area does not create enough humidity in the vivarium, regular spraying can help. Never reduce ventilation to increase humidity.

Lighting

The recommended photoperiod is 12 to 14 hours of light and 10 to 12 hours of darkness. Ideally, provide access to unfiltered sunlight, but if this is not possible, provide a full spectrum light source, which must be placed within 12 inches of the basking sites and replaced every six months for juveniles or 12 months for adults.

Sexing

Males are larger than the females, and their dorsal crest is more developed. Although both sexes possess pre-femoral pores, they are much more developed in the mature male. A hemipenal bulge also can be seen at the base of the tail in mature males.

Breeding

Sexual maturitycan be reached at one year of age. Breeding usually occurs during the winter and early spring. Males in breeding condition will become brightly colored from golden-yellow to deep orange on the chin, chest and side of the head. The female water dragon can lay up to five clutches of eggs in one season, each clutch containing 10 to 15 eggs.

An egg-laying container should be placed in a remote area of the vivarium for egg laying. The eggs are best incubated on damp vermiculite at 82 to 86 F and the babies should hatch between 60 and 101 days. Neonates measure around 6 inches in length at birth. Their care is similar to the adults. They should be raised in groups and fed on insects dusted with mineral supplements and given access to unfiltered sunlight or broad-spectrum, artificial lighting.

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Exo Terra Habitat Kit Cameroon Available Now!

Explore the rain forests of Cameroon with Exo Terra. During these Exo Terra expeditions, three new reptile species have been discovered !

The Exo Terra Cameroon Rainforest Habitat Kit is the ideal set-up for the beginner herpetoculturist! The kit comes with all of the components necessary to give your terrarium hobby a successful start - including the Exo Terra Glass Terrarium, designed by European herpetologists.
An instruction manual is included to guide you through the process of installation, decoration and maintenance of the Exo Terra Cameroon Rainforest Terrarium Kit.

Ideal for: Small species of snakes, frogs, lizards and geckos.

Consult your retailer for advice on the care of your chosen species and their specific requirements for additional equipment, such as: heat source; bulb type; food & supplements.

Choosing the right bulb

Many reptiles have different requirements when it comes to lighting. As this habitat is recommended for various reptile species, please use the table below as a guide to help you select the correct bulb.

Repti Glo 2.0

This bulb is suitable for snakes, all amphibians (frogs, toads and salamanders) and nocturnal animals.

Repti Glo 5.0

This bulb is suitable for all diurnal tropical species except snakes.

Repti Glo 10.0

This bulb is suitable for all diurnal desert species except snakes.

Habitat Kit Cameroon 2010

PT2658

45 x 45 x 60 cm

18" x 18" x 24"

PT2658 Habitat Kit Cameroon 2010
Cameroon Rainforest starter Kit
Exo Terra Glass Terrarium - Water Dish Medium - Hygrometer - Thermometer - Cameroon Background - Standing Plant Spider Orchid - Jungle Vine Small and Large - Jungle Plant Amapallo - Jungle Fern Large - Plantation Soil - Compact Top - Terrarium Canopy - Exo Terra Catalogue - Booklet - Expedition Poster

Be the first to own one of these beautiful terrariums, we have them! Click Here

Burmese Pythons

BURMESE PYTHONS (Albino Burmese Python shown in pic)

Burmese Pythons are light-colored snakes with many brown blotches bordered in black down the back. The perceived attractiveness of their skin pattern contributes to their popularity with both reptile keepers and the leather industry. The pattern is similar in color, but different in actual pattern to the African Rock Python (Python sebae), sometimes resulting in confusion of the two species outside of their natural habitats.

In the wild, Burmese pythons grow to 3.7 meters (12 ft) on average,while specimens of more than 4.5 meters (15 ft) are uncommon.Individuals over 5 meters (16 ft) – like a specimen form Cooch Behar with 5.8 meters (19 ft) and 91 kilograms (201 lb)are very rare.There are reports of snakes more than 6 meters (20 ft) long, but those are often result of confusion between Burmese Pythons and Reticulated Pythons, stretched skins, or simple exaggeration. There are also dwarf forms on Java, Bali and Sulawesi. At Bali they reach an average length of 2 meters (6.6 ft) and on Sulawesi they achieve a maximum of 2.5 meters (8.2 ft).

Geographic Range and Habitat

The Burmese Python is found throughout Southern- and Southeast Asia including Eastern India, Nepal, Western Bhutan, Southeast Bangladesh, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Northern continental Malaysia, Southern China and in Indonesia on Java, Southern Sulawesi, Bali and Sumbawa.This python is an excellent swimmer and needs a permanent source of water. It can be found in grasslands, marshes, swamps, rocky foothills, woodlands, river valleys, and jungles with open clearings. They are good climbers and have prehensile tails.
Burmese Pythons as an invasive species

The captive breeding of Burmese Pythons in the Americas has led to some rather serious problems. People who grow tired of their pythons, or whose pythons have grown too large to be kept in their houses, have been known to release their pets into the wild rather than have them re-homed. This has been particularly problematic in Florida, where a large number of pythons have made their way to the Everglades.They have thrived there, begun to reproduce prolifically, and become an invasive species. Over 230 (National Geographic - October 28, 2005) have been captured in the Everglades where they are competing with alligators as the dominant predator. In recent years this competition has resulted in what officials describe as a draw.Since they have been known to eat endangered birds and alligators, these snakes present a new danger to an already fragile ecosystem. In February 2008, USGS scientists published a projected range map for the US, based on average climate data of the snake's home range and Global warming projections, which predicted that these snakes could eventually migrate to and flourish in as much as a third of the continental United States by the end of the 21st century. However, a subsequent study produced a map incorporating both climatic extremes and averages, which showed the Burmese python's range to be limited to Southern Florida.

Behaviour

Burmese Pythons are mainly nocturnal rain forest dwellers.When younger they are equally at home on the ground and in trees, but as they gain girth they tend to restrict most of their movements to the ground. They are also excellent swimmers, being able to stay submerged for up to half an hour. Burmese Pythons spend the majority of their time hidden in the underbrush. In the northern parts of its range it may brumate for some months during the cold season in a hollow tree, a hole in the riverbank or under rocks. Brumation is biologically distinct from hibernation. While the behavior has similar benefits, specifically to endure the winter without moving, it also involves preparation of both male and female reproductive organs for the upcoming breeding season.

Burmese Pythons breed in the early spring, with females laying clutches which average 12–36 eggs in March or April. She will remain with the eggs until they hatch, wrapping around them and twitching her muscles in such a way as to raise the ambient temperature around the eggs by several degrees. Once the hatch-lings use their egg tooth to cut their way out of their eggs, there is no further maternal care. The newly hatched will often remain inside their egg until they are ready to complete their first shedding of skin, after which they hunt for their first meal.

Diet

Like all snakes, Burmese Pythons are carnivorous. Their diet consists primarily of appropriately sized birds and mammals. The snake uses its sharp rearward-pointing teeth to seize its prey, then wraps its body around the prey at the same time contracting its muscles, killing the prey by constriction. They are often found near human habitations due to the presence of rats, mice and other vermin as a food source. However, their equal affinity for domesticated birds and mammals means that they are often treated as a pest. In captivity their diet consists primarily of commercially available, appropriately sized rats, and moving up to larger items such as rabbits and poultry as they grow. Exceptionally large pythons may even require larger food items such as pigs or goats, and are known to have attacked alligators in Florida, where it is an invasive species.

Digestion

The digestive response of Burmese Pythons to such large prey has made them a model species for digestive physiology. A fasting python will have a reduced stomach volume and acidity, reduced intestinal mass and a 'normal' heart volume. After ingesting prey, the entire digestive system undergoes a massive remodeling, with rapid hypertrophy of the intestines, production of stomach acid, and a 40% increase in mass of the ventricles of the heart in order to fuel the digestive process.

Conservation

Wild populations are considered to be "threatened" and are listed on Appendix II of CITES. All the giant pythons (including the Indian Python, the African Rock Python, and the Reticulated Python) have historically been slaughtered to supply the world leather market, as well as for folk medicines, and captured for the pet trade. Some are also killed for food, particularly in China.

In Hong Kong, it is a protected species under Wild Animals Protection Ordinance Cap 170.

In Captivity

Burmese Pythons are often sold as pets, and are made popular by their attractive color and apparently easy-going nature. However, these animals have a rapid growth rate, and will often exceed 2.1 meters (7 feet) in length in a year if cared for and fed properly. By age 4, they will have reached their adult size, though they continue growing very slowly throughout their lives, which may exceed 20 years.

While this species has a reputation for docility, they are very powerful animals, capable of inflicting severe bites or even killing a keeper by constriction. They also consume large amounts of food, and due to their size, require large, often custom-built, secure enclosures, which can be very expensive. As a result some are released to the wild by pet owners.

A secondary problem with feeding Burmese Pythons is that many owners believe if a snake acts hungry, that it should be fed. As Burmese Pythons are opportunistic feeders, they will eat almost any time food is offered, and often act hungry even when they have recently eaten. This often leads to overfeeding, and obesity related problems are common in captive Burmese Pythons.

Burmese Handling

Although pythons are typically afraid of people, due to their high stature (especially given that snakes are usually low to the ground), and will generally avoid people, special care is still required when handling them. A three meters long Burmese Python can easily kill a child and a five meters long (around 16.5 feet) Burmese Python is certainly capable of overpowering and killing a fully grown adult, so it is not advisable to handle such a large snake alone. If the snake does wrap around an individual, others should be present to unwind the snake, starting at the tail. Many reptile zoos demonstrate proper snake handling technique. Usually the demonstrator handles the head, while non-professionals can handle the rest of the snake's body. Snakes should be supported firmly but gently.

Variations

The Burmese Python is frequently captive bred for color, pattern, and more recently size. The albino form of the Burmese Python is especially popular and is the most widely available morph. They are white with patterns in butterscotch yellow and burnt orange. There are also "Labyrinth" specimens, which have maze like patterns, khaki colored "Green" Burmese Pythons, and "Granite" Burmese Pythons, which have many small angular spots. Breeders have recently begun working with an island lineage of Burmese Pythons. Early reports indicate that these "Dwarf" Burmese have a slightly different coloring and pattern than their mainland relatives and do not grow much over 2.1 meters (7 ft) long. The "Dwarf" Burmese were first captively reproduced by Beau Lewis of Arizona, USA. One of the most sought-after of these variations is the leucistic Burmese. This particular variety is very rare, and has only recently (2008/2009) been reproduced in captivity as the super form of the co-dominant hypomelanistic trait. This snake is entirely bright white with no pattern and black eyes, thus precluding it from being a true albino. The first Caramel Burmese Python was successfully hatched out on May 15, 2008 by Mark Andrews and Jason Hormann of Kansas City, KS. This snake has caramel colored pattern with milk chocolate eyes.

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Exo Terra Lighting

What bulb do I use?

Which artificial light source is capable of providing visual light, UV light and infrared light (or heat)?

The only light source today that is capable of providing the three important aspects of light (UV, visual and infrared light) in a somewhat balanced way is a mercury vapor bulb. Unfortunately these bulbs are not suitable for the smaller terrariums because of their high wattage.

If heat is infrared light, how do I create heat gradients?

In heat you have conduction, convection and radiation. Heat gradients are automatically created when a light source is used as a heat source on top of the terrarium. The first energy to strike the ambient air and the objects therein is the radiation. The heated air will then result in convection whereas the heated objects will provide conduction of the heat. The nature of different matters (air, wood, glass, plants, sand, etc.) will result automatically in heat gradients. A well-decorated terrarium increases these heat gradients by preventing the radiation to reach the substrate or underlying dimensions.

It is said that nocturnal and carnivorous reptiles do not need Ultraviolet light, in which case is an incandescent light bulb sufficient?

Not necessarily. Incandescent bulbs are suitable light sources for nocturnal reptiles in some cases. However, we have to take into account that many nocturnal reptiles are exposed to direct or scattered sun light during the day. Some reptiles rest/sleep on tree trunks or outcrops during the day, some deliberately bask during daytime hours while feeding at night, and others start their activity before sunset. This means that some form of photosynthesis takes place with these species.
Also many carnivorous reptiles still need UV light for photosynthesis purposes, correct environment, food and signaling perception. Not all carnivorous prey is capable of supplying the necessary vitamin D3 levels. If the prey's liver is not consumed, vitamin D3 intake is inadequate.
We can thus state that many nocturnal and carnivorous still require balanced lighting systems and that several more factors, other than just day and night cycle or infrared exposure have to be taken into account.

What are the pros and cons of fluorescent lights?

Fluorescents are the most economical light source, both in energy consumption and price. They are capable of emitting high levels of UV combined with acceptable levels of visual light. The higher the amount of visual light the lower the UV emission and vice versa. A combination of two fluorescents (visual + UV) and a basking light (incandescent) is recommended since fluorescent lights fail to produce sufficient heat.
Compact fluorescents have the same spectrum characteristics and emission as linear fluorescents. Due to their compact size, and because they are self ballasted, they are often easier to install than linear bulbs that still require a ballast.

What are the pros and cons of Mercury vapor lights?

These bulbs have it all: UV, high visual light output and sufficient infrared radiation. However, the disadvantage is that they consume a lot of energy (100 watt and plus) in order to operate properly. The lower the wattage, the less stable the bulb is. They are thus only suitable for very big terrariums.

What are the pros and cons of Incandescent lights?

Incandescents are inexpensive but are not very energy efficient when it comes to visual light. They are excellent as an infrared source to increase the ambient air temperature or as basking light. This type of light source also fails to produce any UVB radiation.

What are the pros and cons of Metal halide?

Metal halides are one of the best possible light sources around, the drawback is that they are very expensive. They have a very high light output, are capable of producing sufficient UV levels, and have a high infrared radiation. The installation is very expensive since a ballast is needed plus a special fixture.
The new HCI (Osram) or CDM (Philips) fits any HQI (Metal halide) fixture but has a greater visual light production with the same energy consumption. The advantages are the same then as those of metal halide.

What are the pros and cons of Halogen lights?

Halogen lights are somewhat more energy efficient than regular incandescent lights since they produce more visual light.

How much Ultraviolet light do reptiles receive in nature?

Ultraviolet radiation is expressed in microwatt per square centimeter (mW/cm²) and varies tremendously from the poles (low) towards the equator (high). The amount of UVB radiation received on the equator on a clear day at noon is around 270 mW/cm². However, this high amount of radiation decreases as the day passes, in the same way that it had increased since sunrise and taking into consideration that not all days are clear. In the wild, basking activities of most reptiles are limited to the early morning and later afternoon. The rest of the day is spent in the shade, in burrows, crevices or other shaded places, or at various places in leafy bushes, shrubs or trees. In tropical forests, home to many types of reptiles and amphibians, only a little direct sun penetrates the forest canopy and underlying layers to reach the ground.

Can we create these conditions in a terrarium?

Yes, absolutely, but…
Many commercial reptile lights today exceed this 270 mW/cm² in an attempt to show the greatest UVB radiation. Some even exceed over 2000 mW/cm², which is absolutely dangerous! Especially if you know that the 270 value of the sun is only measured at high noon on a clear day while most light bulbs are on between 10 and 12 hours with constant values. Reptiles accumulate these UVB rays during the day (10 to 12 hours), so there is absolutely no need to even emit 270 mW/cm² continuously.

Conclusion: "More is not always better"!

What is the role of lighting in reptile keeping?

Light has several functions:

• Indicating night/day cycle
• Providing light to see properly
• Environment perception (visual & UV)
• Agonistic and signaling communication (visual & UV)
• Physiological well-being (UVA)
• Photosynthesis of pre-vitamin D3 (UVB)
• Coloration is light intensity dependent
• Thermo-regulation (infrared)

Is the importance of light often underestimated?

Yes, absolutely. Especially when it comes to intensity of both UV and visual light. Often though, the importance of high levels of UVB light is overestimated; "More is not always better". In lighting there are many aspects and it is important to offer a balanced lighting system. It has to cover the simple aspects from indicating day and night cycle to more complex issues like photosynthesis. Unfortunately consumers often only use incandescent lights, which in most cases are totally inadequate.

What is the relationship between reptiles and the sun?

The sun's energy ultimately drives all life processes on earth and reptiles are no exception. If we fail to provide the important life sustaining aspects of this energy in captive conditions we will fail to maintain thriving terrarium populations, not to mention reproduction.

With special thanks to Dr. Luc Lambrechts, Wilrijk (Belgium) for the veterinarian images

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African Giant Black Millipede Quick Care

African Giant Black Millipede
(Archispirostreptus gigas)
by Jon Fouskaris

African Giant Black Millipedes are beautiful, extremely docile, moisture-loving giants that make the perfect pet arthropod! These millipedes have the ability to curl themselves up into a ball if disturbed, and can secrete a defensive liquid that could be dangerous if put into the eyes or mouth. Make sure to wash your hands if exposed to the liquid. To find the number of legs on your millipede, count the body segments, multiply by 4, and subtract 10. Of course, many millipedes have missing legs, so the number will be general. African Giant Black Millipedes are some of the largest millipedes in the world, if not the largest. They can grow to be as thick around as your thumb. Many times these millipedes are found in pet shops where they are full of mites. A few mites on your millipede is generally harmless, but if there is a huge number of mites living on your millipede, it is suggested to get the mites off. To do this, take a cotton ball, dip it in rubbing alcohol or petroleum jelly, and wipe it over the mites. Rubbing alcohol and petroleum jelly does not seem to harm the millipede, as long as it does not penetrate the millipedes' breathing pores, on the side of their body. African Giant Black Millipedes should be the first millipede considered if you are a newcomer to the hobby.

Range	Tropical and sub-tropical western Africa.
Type	Terrestrial, but will burrow to some extent.
Diet	Babies and adults eat bananas, tomatoes, melons, romaine lettuce, apples, cucumbers, and other fruits and vegetables. Millipedes should have a supply of calcium added to their diet, like calcium powder, which can be purchased from most pet stores.
Full Grown Size	7.5 to 11 inches.
Growth	Slow speed.
Temperature	75 to 85� F.
Humidity	75 to 80%.
Temperament	Docile and calm.
Housing	Babies can live in a roomy clear plastic container with air holes. Adults can live in a 5 to 10-gallon tank, depending on the size of the millipede. Millipedes can live communally. The tank should be twice as long, and at least as wide as the individual, or the largest millipede in the tank. Floor space is more important than height.
Substrate	3 to 4 inches of peat moss and potting soil, kept moist.
Decor	No decorations are really needed.
Other Names	Giant Millipede, African Black Millipede, and Tanzanian Giant Black Millipede.

*Please note that ALL millipedes can secrete a liquid that can be dangerous to some people. Although most people are not affected by this species, some people may be allergic to the liquid, or just more sensitive, making it a dangerous situation, especially if put into the eyes or mouth. Affects of this millipedes' natural defenses may vary between people. All millipedes can secrete this liquid, so be careful, because you don't want to find out if you are allergic or more sensitive the HARD WAY!

Millipedes can no longer be imported to the untied states, local breeders will be your best bet if you would like to acquire one

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