Burmese Pythons

BURMESE PYTHONS (Albino Burmese Python shown in pic)

Burmese Pythons are light-colored snakes with many brown blotches bordered in black down the back. The perceived attractiveness of their skin pattern contributes to their popularity with both reptile keepers and the leather industry. The pattern is similar in color, but different in actual pattern to the African Rock Python (Python sebae), sometimes resulting in confusion of the two species outside of their natural habitats.

In the wild, Burmese pythons grow to 3.7 meters (12 ft) on average,while specimens of more than 4.5 meters (15 ft) are uncommon.Individuals over 5 meters (16 ft) – like a specimen form Cooch Behar with 5.8 meters (19 ft) and 91 kilograms (201 lb)are very rare.There are reports of snakes more than 6 meters (20 ft) long, but those are often result of confusion between Burmese Pythons and Reticulated Pythons, stretched skins, or simple exaggeration. There are also dwarf forms on Java, Bali and Sulawesi. At Bali they reach an average length of 2 meters (6.6 ft) and on Sulawesi they achieve a maximum of 2.5 meters (8.2 ft).

Geographic Range and Habitat

The Burmese Python is found throughout Southern- and Southeast Asia including Eastern India, Nepal, Western Bhutan, Southeast Bangladesh, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Northern continental Malaysia, Southern China and in Indonesia on Java, Southern Sulawesi, Bali and Sumbawa.This python is an excellent swimmer and needs a permanent source of water. It can be found in grasslands, marshes, swamps, rocky foothills, woodlands, river valleys, and jungles with open clearings. They are good climbers and have prehensile tails.
Burmese Pythons as an invasive species

The captive breeding of Burmese Pythons in the Americas has led to some rather serious problems. People who grow tired of their pythons, or whose pythons have grown too large to be kept in their houses, have been known to release their pets into the wild rather than have them re-homed. This has been particularly problematic in Florida, where a large number of pythons have made their way to the Everglades.They have thrived there, begun to reproduce prolifically, and become an invasive species. Over 230 (National Geographic - October 28, 2005) have been captured in the Everglades where they are competing with alligators as the dominant predator. In recent years this competition has resulted in what officials describe as a draw.Since they have been known to eat endangered birds and alligators, these snakes present a new danger to an already fragile ecosystem. In February 2008, USGS scientists published a projected range map for the US, based on average climate data of the snake's home range and Global warming projections, which predicted that these snakes could eventually migrate to and flourish in as much as a third of the continental United States by the end of the 21st century. However, a subsequent study produced a map incorporating both climatic extremes and averages, which showed the Burmese python's range to be limited to Southern Florida.

Behaviour

Burmese Pythons are mainly nocturnal rain forest dwellers.When younger they are equally at home on the ground and in trees, but as they gain girth they tend to restrict most of their movements to the ground. They are also excellent swimmers, being able to stay submerged for up to half an hour. Burmese Pythons spend the majority of their time hidden in the underbrush. In the northern parts of its range it may brumate for some months during the cold season in a hollow tree, a hole in the riverbank or under rocks. Brumation is biologically distinct from hibernation. While the behavior has similar benefits, specifically to endure the winter without moving, it also involves preparation of both male and female reproductive organs for the upcoming breeding season.

Burmese Pythons breed in the early spring, with females laying clutches which average 12–36 eggs in March or April. She will remain with the eggs until they hatch, wrapping around them and twitching her muscles in such a way as to raise the ambient temperature around the eggs by several degrees. Once the hatch-lings use their egg tooth to cut their way out of their eggs, there is no further maternal care. The newly hatched will often remain inside their egg until they are ready to complete their first shedding of skin, after which they hunt for their first meal.

Diet

Like all snakes, Burmese Pythons are carnivorous. Their diet consists primarily of appropriately sized birds and mammals. The snake uses its sharp rearward-pointing teeth to seize its prey, then wraps its body around the prey at the same time contracting its muscles, killing the prey by constriction. They are often found near human habitations due to the presence of rats, mice and other vermin as a food source. However, their equal affinity for domesticated birds and mammals means that they are often treated as a pest. In captivity their diet consists primarily of commercially available, appropriately sized rats, and moving up to larger items such as rabbits and poultry as they grow. Exceptionally large pythons may even require larger food items such as pigs or goats, and are known to have attacked alligators in Florida, where it is an invasive species.

Digestion

The digestive response of Burmese Pythons to such large prey has made them a model species for digestive physiology. A fasting python will have a reduced stomach volume and acidity, reduced intestinal mass and a 'normal' heart volume. After ingesting prey, the entire digestive system undergoes a massive remodeling, with rapid hypertrophy of the intestines, production of stomach acid, and a 40% increase in mass of the ventricles of the heart in order to fuel the digestive process.

Conservation

Wild populations are considered to be "threatened" and are listed on Appendix II of CITES. All the giant pythons (including the Indian Python, the African Rock Python, and the Reticulated Python) have historically been slaughtered to supply the world leather market, as well as for folk medicines, and captured for the pet trade. Some are also killed for food, particularly in China.

In Hong Kong, it is a protected species under Wild Animals Protection Ordinance Cap 170.

In Captivity

Burmese Pythons are often sold as pets, and are made popular by their attractive color and apparently easy-going nature. However, these animals have a rapid growth rate, and will often exceed 2.1 meters (7 feet) in length in a year if cared for and fed properly. By age 4, they will have reached their adult size, though they continue growing very slowly throughout their lives, which may exceed 20 years.

While this species has a reputation for docility, they are very powerful animals, capable of inflicting severe bites or even killing a keeper by constriction. They also consume large amounts of food, and due to their size, require large, often custom-built, secure enclosures, which can be very expensive. As a result some are released to the wild by pet owners.

A secondary problem with feeding Burmese Pythons is that many owners believe if a snake acts hungry, that it should be fed. As Burmese Pythons are opportunistic feeders, they will eat almost any time food is offered, and often act hungry even when they have recently eaten. This often leads to overfeeding, and obesity related problems are common in captive Burmese Pythons.

Burmese Handling

Although pythons are typically afraid of people, due to their high stature (especially given that snakes are usually low to the ground), and will generally avoid people, special care is still required when handling them. A three meters long Burmese Python can easily kill a child and a five meters long (around 16.5 feet) Burmese Python is certainly capable of overpowering and killing a fully grown adult, so it is not advisable to handle such a large snake alone. If the snake does wrap around an individual, others should be present to unwind the snake, starting at the tail. Many reptile zoos demonstrate proper snake handling technique. Usually the demonstrator handles the head, while non-professionals can handle the rest of the snake's body. Snakes should be supported firmly but gently.

Variations

The Burmese Python is frequently captive bred for color, pattern, and more recently size. The albino form of the Burmese Python is especially popular and is the most widely available morph. They are white with patterns in butterscotch yellow and burnt orange. There are also "Labyrinth" specimens, which have maze like patterns, khaki colored "Green" Burmese Pythons, and "Granite" Burmese Pythons, which have many small angular spots. Breeders have recently begun working with an island lineage of Burmese Pythons. Early reports indicate that these "Dwarf" Burmese have a slightly different coloring and pattern than their mainland relatives and do not grow much over 2.1 meters (7 ft) long. The "Dwarf" Burmese were first captively reproduced by Beau Lewis of Arizona, USA. One of the most sought-after of these variations is the leucistic Burmese. This particular variety is very rare, and has only recently (2008/2009) been reproduced in captivity as the super form of the co-dominant hypomelanistic trait. This snake is entirely bright white with no pattern and black eyes, thus precluding it from being a true albino. The first Caramel Burmese Python was successfully hatched out on May 15, 2008 by Mark Andrews and Jason Hormann of Kansas City, KS. This snake has caramel colored pattern with milk chocolate eyes.

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Kenyan Sand Boas

Scientific Name: Eryx Colubrinus
Common Name: Kenyan Sand Boa, East African Sand Boa
Location: Tanzania, Kenyan, Africa, Ethiopia, Egypt
Size: Adults typically around 36"-40", around 400g
Housing: Adults can live in a 20-gallon (long) tank or equivalent
Experience Needed: Beginner, Novice

Natural History


Kenyan sand boas are a small and attractive boid indigenous to Kenya and adjacent countries in East Africa. They are a fossorial species and spend much of their lives burrowed under the sandy soil in which they live.
These snakes are ideally suited for their lifestyle, and have some truly remarkable adaptations. The shape and opening of the mouth is situated in such a way as to avoid ingesting soil while digging, and the rear portion of the tail is covered in keeled scales which provide increased traction in soft sand.


This species is continuing to gain popularity in the pet trade and as a result, they are bred in large numbers and are readily available to the interested hobbyist. In addition to the naturally occurring color varieties a number of designer morphs have been produced. Albinos, snows, and anerythristic forms are but a few of the exciting and beautiful variations that you may find.


Size and Longevity


These are among the smallest boa species in the world. Males are typically much smaller than females and seldom measure more than 2 feet when mature. Females are heavier bodied (to support gestation and live birthing) and reach a maximum size of 3 feet.


Kenyan sand boas are extremely hardy and easy to keep. With good husbandry and attention to proper care guidelines, these snakes will live well over 20 years.


Housing


Due to their small size and inactive nature, Kenyan sand boas may be housed in fairly small and convenient enclosures. Babies can be maintained in a standard 10 gallon terrarium for their first year or so. After that, single animals should be housed in a 15 to 20 gallon terrarium, or equivalent enclosure. Pairs or trios should be given proportionally more space.


These snakes do not climb, and in fact, rarely venture above the surface of the substrate. This nature allows for the use of low-profile tanks that offer more floor space but a minimum of height. All enclosures for sand boas should have secure screen lids to prevent escapes and ensure adequate ventilation.


Heating and Lighting


As a desert species, Kenyan sand boas should be kept hot during the day with a slight drop in temperature at night. The warm side of the enclosure should be between 90 and 95 degrees during the day, with access to cooler areas in the low 80's. At night temperatures can safely drop to 70 degrees, although slightly warmer nighttime temps seem advantageous for younger animals.


Heat may be provided via the use of ceramic heat emitters, standard heat bulbs, and heating pads designed specifically for reptile use. Supplemental lighting is not required for this species. However, constant exposure to light can be stressful for any animal, so if heat lights are used during the day, they should be replaced by another form of heat after dark.


Substrate and Furnishings


Being a relatively inactive species, Kenyan sand boas do not require elaborate enclosures. A few inches of substrate should be provided for burrowing. Sand can be used safely as long as your snakes are fed in an alternate container to prevent ingestion. Other suitable substrates include aspen chips (Sani-chips), shredded aspen, or any other desert-type bedding that is designed for use with snakes and is not overly dusty.


Although most sand boas will spend the majority of their time dug into burrows, a few additional hiding spots can be added. Slabs of cork bark and half-logs are both acceptable. Avoid heavy pieces of stone or wood that may settle onto a digging snake and cause crushing injuries. Further decorations such as plastic cacti can be used at the keepers discretion but will be more for aesthetics than for functionality.


Water and Humidity


Kenyan sand boas should be kept dry as to simulate the deserts from which they originate. Shedding problems are rare with this species, but if they occur temporarily offering your snakes a localized area of increased humidity should remedy the problem.


In cages with screen tops, a small water dish may be provided at all times. However, because these animals are so sensitive to high levels of humidity, water bowls should only be offered a few times a week in less ventilated enclosures or in rack systems.


Nutrition


As with other aspects of sand boa husbandry, feeding is fairly straight forward. Snakes of all sizes should be offered one appropriately sized prey item once a week. A suitably sized mouse for a sand boa should be just big enough to leave a noticeable bulge in the snakes belly. Newborn (pinky) mice are ideal for hatchlings, while large adults will easily consume a fully adult mouse.


Pre-killed prey (either freshly killed or frozen/thawed) are recommended to reduce the likelihood of bites to your snake during the constricting process. Additionally, feeding your snakes in a container other than their primary habitat is advised. This ensures that no substrate is ingested when you snake feeds and also seems to cut down on the overall level of aggression of the animal when it is in it’s enclosure.


Handling


Although these snakes are rarely seen exploring their enclosures, they can be removed and handled easily. They are not aggressive, and specimens that have been handled regularly will become quite tame. Keep in mind that these snakes like to burrow, so their movements on solid ground and in your hands may seem spastic and jumpy. This is normal, and they should adjust to your touch over time.


As with any snake, avoid over handling. If your snake seems stressed as indicated by lack of appetite or unusual aggression, consider reducing the frequency of handling sessions until the animal’s behavior normalizes.

Captive bred Vs. Wild Caught Reptiles

Wild Collared Lizard Shown

Question: Should I get a Wild Caught or Captive Bred Reptile? Answer: In short, captive bred is best, so if at all possible get a captive bred reptile as a pet. It is true that some species of reptile do not readily reproduce in captivity so for these you may need to get a wild caught reptile. However, for many commonly kept species, captive bred animals are quite readily available. If you can find a captive bred reptile this is the best option for a number of reasons:

• Captive bred reptiles are generally healthier than wild caught. The stress of capture and transport and adjustment to captive conditions is extremely stressful and leaves reptiles susceptible to illness. Wild caught reptiles also tend to carry very heavy parasite loads.

• Captive bred reptiles are generally less skittish and easier to handle than wild caught.

• Captive bred snakes accept pre killed prey more readily than wild caught snakes (especially true for ball pythons).

• Buying a captive bred reptile helps to maintain wild populations. For every wild caught reptile that makes it to a pet store and into a home, many more die from stress, injury, and/or illness related to capture, transport, overcrowding, etc.

Unfortunately it is often less expensive to buy a wild caught reptile over a captive bred one. However, when you consider the rates of illness and parasitism in wild caught reptiles as well as the rates of mortality, it is often much less expensive over the long run to purchase captive bred than to treat or replace a sick wild caught reptile.

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Columbian Red Tailed Boa

Peruvian red Tailed Boa Shown in pic

Columbian Red-Tailed Boa
This attractive snake is desirable because it is readily tamed and easy to maintain. The captive born and raised Colombian Boas are usually very docile. They can easily be kept by a beginner as well as the experienced herptile keeper. Very young snakes are delicate and subject to illness so look for small adults.

Distribution: The Colombian Boa or Common Boa is found throughout a large range of South America. They are found in Colombia of course, but also in Guyana, Peru, Suriname, Hogg Island, Venezuela, and more.

Description: The Colombian Boa will grow to between six and nine feet, though they can reach up to 12 feet. The males are smaller than the females. This Snake is robust, with a triangular head separated from the body by a thin neck.
Their natural coloring is a pattern of elongated, saddle like, pale gray patches on a background of rich chocolate to almost chestnut brown. The sides are paler with dark brown, diamond shaped spots that have white centers. The undersides are yellowish, spotted with black. The chestnut brown coloring becomes progressively brighter until it is a brick red or pure red, and they are thus sometimes called the 'Colombian Red Tailed Boa'. This name is a bit misleading as the True Red Tail Boa Boa c. constrictor, is the nominant race.

Feeding: They are a constrictor and their diet consists of mice, rats, small rabbits and the large snakes can also eat chickens. Feed once or twice a week, depending on the size of the food and the size of the snake. As you get to know your snake, you'll learn what its feeding needs are. Fresh water in a good size water dish should always be available.

Environment: These snakes are best kept singly except when they are being bred, but you may be able to keep them with other snakes the same size as long as you feed them separately.
The Colombian Boa constrictor needs a good size cage. Its' housing can be set up as a woodland type terrarium, but keep the decor to the minimum. A good size water dish will provide moderate humidity as well as a place for soaking and drinking. A heavy limb for climbing on, resting on, and to aid in shedding makes the perfect decor.

Temperature and Lighting requirements: They do well at 82° to 95° F in the daytime and 72° to 80° F at night. Full Spectrum Lighting is important for your snakes well being and its long-term maintenance. You can use a substrate heating device for basic heating. For additional heat, you can add a full spectrum incandescent daytime bulb and a blacklight bulb or red incandescent bulb for nighttime heating. Be sure you use a thermometer so you don't let the terrarium become overheated!

Breeding/Reproduction: These snakes, if not babies, need to be probe sexed for positive sex identification, and they bear live young. Their gestation period can range from four to six months. The litters are large with up to 30 babies, each about 24 inches (61 cm) long and resembling the coloring and patterning of their parents. They are fairly easy to breed in captivity.

Availability: The Colombian Boa constrictors or Common boas are very common and readily available due to captive breeding.

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Feeding Pre-Killed Prey To Reptiles

Feeding Pre-killed Prey to Reptiles


Many wild reptiles include some sort of living prey in their natural menu. Be it insects, rodents, birds, or fish, the fact is that many herps have the instinct to hunt for their food. For years hobbyists have been familiar with the concept of offering herps (usually snakes) prey that has already been humanely dispatched, and in some cases frozen for storage and re-thawed. Some keepers feel that pre-killing prey is a time-consuming and un-necessary hassle, but the fact is that in most cases it is a warned and worthwhile practice.


When it comes to feeding vertebrate prey (i.e Mice, Rats, Rabbits, etc.) to reptiles, the animal being fed nearly always is a snake. Large carnivorous lizards such as Monitors and Tegus tend to have little trouble with live rodents; however, the principles presented here still apply and should at least be considered if you routinely feed live rodents to your monitors or tegus.


First let me explain some of the advantages to feeding pre-killed prey, then I will offer some steps to take in order to get you snake interested in prey that's no longer alive.


Advantage number one is directly related to the safety of your pet. Weanlings through adult size mice as well as all sizes of rats are capable of inflicting a nasty bite on another creature. If your snake happens to be unlucky, or perhaps doesn't grab the prey just so, there is a good chance of the rodent biting back. This is relatively common, and generally not serious, but as with any wound (especially a bite) there is a chance of systemic infection in your snake. Also, despite sounding ridiculous, I have personally observed a number of snakes that, after being painfully bitten by a mouse while killing it, went on to refuse food for an extended period of time. In either case, the end result is preventable.


A less common, though much more serious situation occurs when a live prey item is left unattended with a snake for some period of time. There are countless reports of snakes (usually finicky ball pythons) left for days in a closed box with a live prey item. The results are usually deadly. Snakes are often chewed on by hungry rodents that have nothing else to eat. Remember, snakes can go months without food, but not mice and rats. Why would a snake let this happen? Simple. The snake isn't hungry. It may be stressed, ill, or just plain full. In any case, if the initial feeding response is not there, then leaving the rodent with the snake for hours will make no difference. If a snake doesn't show interest right away, chances are it won't eat right then. The longer the prey item is left with the snake, the more desensitized the snake becomes to the prey item. Rule of thumb: Don't leave live prey with an unattended snake for more than 15 minutes at a time.


So, perhaps your asking yourself, who pre-kills the rats and mice for these snakes in the wild? Well, nobody. But that's OK. These snakes aren't in the wild. They are our pets, and their health and very lives are our responsibility. It is up to us to do everything we can to make our pets safe and comfortable as long as we continue to keep them as pets. To the person who insists that feeding live prey is the natural, only way to go, I offer this: Why not also expose your pets to other "natural" factors. How about unexpected cold-snaps, or predators. See my point?


By offering freshly killed prey, you are obviously able to avoid the whole prey-fighting-back phenomenon. However, you can take it a step further and increase the safety and convenience of feeding rodents to a whole new level. Consider purchasing frozen prey. They are readily available for less than the price of a live food item, and can be stored in your freezer for months. Additionally, by freezing the prey item solid, any potential diseases and or parasites that may have been present in the rodent are unquestionably killed.


There are cases when feeding live prey will be needed. Finicky or young animals may be stubborn about taking dead prey, as well as certain individual animals that will simply never cooperate. In all other cases, the only advantage to feeding live prey is for the entertainment value it provides its owner. Sure, the chase can be exciting, but is really worth the potential harm to your pet?


So, you've decided to give the pre-killed feeding thing a try. Good. You have nothing to lose. If your snake is used to being offered live prey, then I would continue to do so in your home until your snake is fully settled in. There is no use in trying to further confuse and stress an already upset animal adjusting to a new environment. It's best to give the snake a few weeks to settle in, before making any drastic changes in feeding practices.


In the best case scenario, your snake will accept the prey with little or no work on your part. Snakes with strong feeding responses such as most colubrids and boas will often take the prey if simply left alone for a while with the dead rodent in a dark, quiet place. (Remember, it's always a good idea to feed your snakes in a container other than the one they live in. Doing so greatly reduces their aggression level in the cage, as well as your chances of being bitten.) If the snake has not eaten after 15 minutes, you may want to consider leaving it with the prey overnight in a secure and warm area. The drawback here is that as time progresses, the prey item will begin to stiffen and cool to room temperature. Both of which may cause the snake to lose interest. My personal opinion is that if the snake hasn't consumed a dead prey item after an hour or so, it probably won't, so rather than leaving the snake crammed in a feeding container, just call it quits, and try again in a few days.


Lots of snakes are attracted to the movement and/or body temperature of their prey. If you do not succeed the first time feeding your snake pre-killed prey, try slightly moving the food item with a long pair of tongs or a long, smooth stick. Usually a slight jiggle or two is enough to attract the snake's attention. The animal will often flick its tongue once or twice, realize you have food, and then go to town. But there will be exceptions. Sometimes you will have to dangle the prey item for a number of minutes before the snake strikes. Just be patient and try not to frighten the snake with fast movements that the snake may interpret as threatening.


As for temperature of the prey, remember that pythons as well as some boas and all pit vipers, sense the heat of their prey's body while hunting. Obviously a mouse that has been dead for 2 hours is going to have little or no effect on the snakes' heat sensing abilities. To combat this problem, you can only offer freshly killed food (as opposed to prey items that were killed 5 hours ago and just left to sit at room temperature). Also, you can warm up the prey slightly by placing it under a low wattage heat lamp, or by popping it a zip lock baggy and floating it in some very warm water. Under no circumstances should you microwave prey to be given to a snake for food. Chances are it will explode, or worse, burn your snake internally.


If you are feeding prey that has been frozen, then you simply need to thaw the food item out prior to feeding. Never offer frozen prey that has not been completely thawed. Sometimes the outer layers seem thawed but the food remains frozen in the center. After being consumed, these prey can quickly lower a snakes body temperature from the inside out. The best ways to thaw prey are to just leave them out at room temperature until completely thawed, then set it under a warming lamp for a few moments so that it is slightly warmer than the snakes environment. The other tried and true method is placing the rodent in a water tight plastic bag, and putting into warm water. This method is quick and clean, it usually takes 10-15 minutes to thaw an average sized mouse.


Hopefully the information I have shared here makes sense to you. Remember, when we take wild animals into our homes as pets it is our responsibility to provide for them the absolute best care possible. Good nutrition is the corner stone to caring for any type of animal. So give feeding pre-killed a try. It's safe, convenient, and an excellent way to insure the health and long life of all the animals in your collection.

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